Understanding cenotes
Each cenote has a very different character , as the shape is set by the way the water dissolves the limestone . Large caves develop underground , and when the water level drops , the roof falls in creating natural pools . As the caves are close to the sea , the fresh water at the surface often has a denser layer of seawater below , making an interesting blurry ‘ lime cordial ’ effect through the halocline .
Some cenotes are large and open , and have become popular swimming and snorkelling sites ; others are deep in the jungle with small openings , creating beautiful shafts of daylight that pierce the water . The majority have entrances to the vast network of hundreds of kilometres of caves which riddle the limestone and are still being explored and extended by the resident and visiting population of cave divers . All cenotes are owned by someone , and most have basic facilities – kitting up benches , gravel tracks for access and a ‘ long drop ’ dry toilet .
After five days and 13 dives , Lanny finally decided that we had passed the course , and while bobbing on the surface of Mayan Blue cenote , asked if we wanted to go on a cave dive all by ourselves . Rob and I looked nervously around , then of course we said “ yes !”. We picked a tunnel we had previously dived part of the way up , ran through our dive plan and were ready to go exploring . The experience of simply going for a dive , without LannyDrills being thrown at us was very relaxing , even without a ‘ LannyBlanket ’ to keep a close eye on us .
Sheck Exley , in the 1970s , developed some rules for cave diving after nearly coming a cropper
Above : Cenote Angelita
Left : ‘ Team Clammy ’ doing jungle line drills
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