Giants of Bali
Setting the scene: Bali is best known for little animals these days, its east and northwest coasts home to some critter hotspots. But Bali has a wild side, namely the island of Nusa Penida in the southeast. In Balinese folklore, Nusa Penida is known as the‘ Island of the Priests’, associated with black magic and demons. This is reflected by its harsh oceanography, subject to violent swells and unpredictable currents. It just happens to be one of the best places on the planet to dive with Mola mola, the ocean sunfish.
Bigeye trevally at Tulamben, Bali
Children celebrating
Pengerupukan, a Balinese festival
Stars of the show: Bali’ s Mola mola season runs from July to October, with peak sightings in August and September. During this time of the year, seasonal currents from the Indian Ocean lower the water temperature from 27 ° C to 22 ° C, and sometimes quite a bit cooler. At this time, the giant fish move up from deeper offshore waters to shallow reefs to visit cleaning stations.
The cleaning stations are found at depths of 25-45 metres; I suspect the presence of divers has encouraged both cleaners and sunfish to hang out at the fringes of recreational depths limits. In
Nusa Penida it’ s most likely you’ ll be seeing the impressive subspecies Mola alexandrini, the world’ s largest largest bony fish, weighing up to 2,000kg. Approaching them underwater requires a steady, gradual advance. As is often the case with marine creatures, they can grow accustomed to your presence in a relatively short period of time. It also helps if they are preoccupied with being cleaned.
A number of factors can end the encounter abruptly. Camera flashes are likely to send them packing, as are large crowds or any fast movement. It’ s difficult, because everyone in your group will be excited and looking to get closer. Nitrogen narcosis is also liable to come into play, affecting people’ s judgement. Nevertheless, it’ s a great opportunity to get close to a true ocean giant.
Supporting cast: Nusa Penida is also frequented by oceanic manta rays, which can be found at the eponymous Manta Point. These are big rays, and the success rate is very high year-round. Elsewhere in Bali, the east coast enclaves of Amed and Tulamben have great critter diving with coconut octopus and Pikachu nudibranchs in evidence. At Tulamben, you’ ll find the beautiful wreck of USAT Liberty, with its resident school of bumphead parrotfish.
Box office: You can book a 10-day Bali tour from £ 3,500 with diving, flights and transfers. Options are to stay on the mainland coast around Candi Dasa and journey to Nusa Penida on day boats, but my preference would be five or six nights on the island of Nusa Lembongan, which reduces your daily boat journey and offers decent diving in its own right.
Oceanic manta ray
A Mola mola being cleaned by bannerfish at Nusa Penida
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