parasitic copepods pecked from their undersides by blue-lined wrasse. The process is essential to the rays’ health, so they patiently wait their turn, circling certain coral outcrops where the wrasse have set up a‘ station’.
Success or failure of such encounters rests on diver discipline. If anyone ventures too close or rises up in the water column, the cleaner wrasse are liable to cease operations and the rays will disappear.
The other way to experience Maldivian mantas is to snorkel in the proximity of feeding rays, which sometimes happens in certain lagoons. Once they’ ve found a concentrated area of plankton, the rays perform barrel rolls, funnelling water through their mouths and filtering the gelatinous goodies. Diving with scuba is generally seen as too disruptive when the rays are busy trying to feed.
When it comes to whale sharks, you need to be in good shape to snorkel alongside them – they’ re not hanging around. It’ s usually a case of chance encounters, so keep an eye on the sea at all times( though the crew will probably beat you to it). There are certain places known for regular sightings, the outside of Ari Atoll being a prime example.
Pilotfish swimming in front of a whale shark
A Maldivian manta being cleaned by wrasse
Recent years have seen liveaboards using powerful stern lights to attract plankton at night. Whale sharks are seasoned opportunists and will arrive to feed on the swarm; you can snorkel around them off the back of the boat. As always with large
animals, you should maintain a respectful distance and be ready to shift if the shark decides it wants to be where you are.
Supporting cast: The Maldives is all about mid-water fish, so don’ t neglect the schools of blue-lined snapper and oriental sweetlips. You also have the complete cast of reef creatures to enjoy, from octopus to frogfish.
Box office: A week in the Maldives comes in from about £ 4k with flights. Your dilemma is whether to go liveaboard or land-based; it’ s down to personal preference. Check with your resort for seasonality and see what the prevailing conditions are likely to be. If it’ s their manta season, the trade-off may be relatively low viz. If you’ re opting for a liveaboard, ask about the route and the emphasis on manta rays.
A whale shark feeds on plankton attracted to a liveaboard’ s stern lights
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