Scale Aviator International Magazine Issue 3 | Page 95

7

8

The primer went on easily and I sealed the leading
edges with aluminium tape. You probably noticed
the scale flap treatment on the underneath of the
wing. I also extended the sheeting to cover the
aileron joint. Photo #7
I did reinforce the extended sheeting over the
aileron to cover the hinge joint. I used a strip of
light plywood sheeting to keep it from drooping
and breaking off. Although this material is pretty
tough.
I have to point out that the servo linkage to the
flap and ailerons are hidden. If you don’t want it
to look like an ARF then hide those linkages under
the wing. Guys at the field will take a second look
once your airborne, and of course come over when
you land to ask all those questions about what did
you build this from....

9

I was continually impressed as I mentioned earlier,
that the Fliteskin looked so good once applied.
Now that I had gone this far, I felt this model
deserved to look more scale even though it was
an ARF.
I added more scale treatment on this model
10
including glassing the fuselage, and added
electric retracts. I will show that in the next issue
assembled, painted and ready to fly. Photo #8,9 carry this product or something similar. I found it
to sand a lot easier than Bondo.
& 10.
I also applied the material to the tail feathers
Photo #11 & 12, and this was a lot easier. At the
edges I filled them in with Split Second two part
body filler. This material sands off easily and
primer covers it really well.
Most paint stores that sell to auto body shops

With some of the small scraps of the Fliteskin I
covered the horizontal stabs and the control
surfaces. The control surfaces on a full size T6
Texan are fabric covered, but the material was so
easy to apply, I decided to cover them as well.

95