SHOEMAKING
Walking on Sunshine
Caroline Groves, a traditional shoemaker with over 25 years of experience in the bespoke field, talks to Savile Row Style
Caroline, let’ s start with an important question: What constitutes a good shoe? The whole ethos of my work is integrity of materials, methods and service. This means every shoe is hand-crafted, using the best traditional methods and the best, most appropriate leathers and other materials. No plastics or manmade materials. English oak bark tanned leather is used for all insoling, soling and stiffening, it has wonderful properties of being able to be wet moulded and retain its shape. This gives the shoes incredible comfort, breathability and longevity. All heels, if not leather stacked are hand carved beech wood, covered with upper leather. All these things also mean that my shoes are fully repairable. A sewing machine is the only machinery used.
I have had a fascination and association with the West End bespoke gents trade throughout my career and it is that ultimate expression of the possibilities of leather seen in the gents trade that I strive to bring into a more sculptural higher heeled woman ' s work. My shoes have been described as becoming like friends or little pets for the feet!
Why are fabulous shoes important? From my point of view, as a designer / craftsman, with over 25 years’ experience in the trade I am compelled to exercise my skills and ideas by making shoes that challenge me and give me pleasure. I am on a continuous learning curve. For the client a fabulous pair of shoes may be simply a standard working shoe that fits! For others it will be the opportunity to have a pair or more of shoes that have been entirely created for them, with their input, their measurements, their tastes and sensibilities all being taken into account.
Can you talk us through the process for commissioning a bespoke pair of shoes from you? The commissioning process can take several forms but the basic is an initial meeting to discuss the client requirements in terms of styles of shoes or boots, heel height and shapes, toe shapes etc. A mock up shoe or shoes will be made based on the information gathered. In some cases I will be invited to see a client’ s dressing room to get a feel for her taste in style, colours, textures. I will source leathers, fabrics, all elements for discussion with and selection by the client. Finally the finished shoes will be fitted. My service adapts to clients’ needs and may mean that I visit at their home or office or fly when necessary. I have a regular bi-annual trunk show in New York.
What would all this cost? On my website I say that that a client should expect to pay in the range of £ 3000 for a pair of
shoes. Every commission is individual and the cost will depend upon the level of service, the cost of commissioning individual elements where necessary to the design, the level of hand work such as embroidery or crochet details, exotic materials etc. £ 2760- £ 6000 would be the most usual but I have made commissions that have been far more. For those who are able to afford my shoes, it is value for money. They represent absolute value in terms of materials, many hours of skilled craftsmanship and judgement and the service.
What are your plans for the future? I am committed to providing various training opportunities to those who work for me whether directly or as outworkers. I want the people I work with to be as enthused and passionate as I am, value their skills and develop them continuously. I would like to be instrumental in heightening the awareness and appreciation of bespoke shoemaking. I would like to secure the future of my business by building on the number of core loyal clientele I have been fortunate to build up over the past years. Q www. carolinegroves. co. uk
90 SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE