THE BIG INTERVIEW
We begin to talk about the subject of this interview – what identifies his signature sartorial look . One might reasonably suppose that most actors surrounded almost constantly by costumes might not be so enthusiastic about clothes themselves – civilian dress for a player of the stage or screen . But as it turns out , classic as his look certainly is , it is refreshingly simple and signature . “ I like clothes having a feel as well as a look ,” he begins . “ I always try to buy clothes made of a fairly distinctive fabric . Also , I am sturdily built ( here a wry smile ) – large chest and short legs , so I can never really wear closely tailored garments .”
But that said the essence of great tailoring is , as Sir Hardy Amies had it , never to look too tight . Great tailoring is usually formfitting and form following . Callow cites a great favourite of his , Issey Miyake whose genius he salutes and favours Emenegildo Zegna ' s suits “ which suit me well and the fabrics are so interesting . I can ' t wear very colourful clothes but I love a whole range of browns , bright copper especially . My mother wanted me to look like a country gent which was preposterous because we were poor !”
This early “ rus in urbe ” look has clearly permeated and Callow is confident with the elegant simplicity and no-frills identity of his chosen garb . Clothes , though un-fussy can also be as vital as more experimental ones – possibly even more so – trusted friends in the wardrobe . Couturier and Chanel supremo Karl Lagerfeld once said something about truly great clothes becoming classics in the wardrobe . The key word , it might be said , is “ becoming ”, almost like living entities . Callow certainly understands what he believes can be style disasters for almost all . “ Pork pie hats and sandals with colours all incredibly muted , make no sense at all . – as if they have been studied in a manual . I suspect that men of my age have their clothes bought for them by their wives and betray nothing about the individual .”
Despite what one might call a relaxed , even casual ethos , the actor remembers always loving purchasing those “ oneoff garments which never went into production – absolutely unique and quirky ”. He cites the one-time Covent Garden boutique in the 1980s Les Deux Zebres , where small runs and indeed one-offs appealed to the urbane dandy types of the time . Today , he likes the edgy minimalism of South Molton Street ' s Vertice which offers a mixture of Italian and French relaxed tailoring and some unusual Asian garments which are hard to find elsewhere in the capital . These are unusual and limited editions , sourced by one charismatic gentleman , Giovanni , who cut his teeth in the demanding world of high fashion represented by Gianni Versace .
“ I suspect that men of my age have their clothes bought for them by their wives and betray nothing about the individual ”
Here , he mentions his mother who used to work at one-time shirting stalwarts , Raelbrook where a high end range of garments was produced which might have been an early influence . Created by one Dodi Van Del , these shirts Callow remembers as extravagant .
I ask the obvious question . What is his take on style and fashion ?
“ Style is an individual sense of oneself .” And fashion ? “ A statement of idioms .”
Callow is not naturally , off stage or screen , of the visually loquacious sort . Simplicity , directness and a tangible sense of never wanting to waste time seem to permeate his very being . That is why his wardrobe must perform for him much as , but in a different way , as he R
SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE 47