Ruskin Lane Consulting Autumn 2013 | Page 14

EVENTS REPORTS stalls, made by local carvers between 1489 and 1494. The misericords, or ‘mercy seats’, have ornately carved ledges on the underside, designed for clergy to lean against during long services. One of these carvings shows the image of a rabbit disappearing down a hole, and is thought to have inspired Lewis Carroll, who visited Ripon during his father's time as a canon. From the relative bustle of Ripon Cathedral we travelled on to the peaceful setting of the great ruins of Fountains Abbey. Surprisingly, this spiritual place arose from a dispute and riot in 1132 at the Benedictine house of St Mary's Abbey in York, where 13 monks were expelled after unsuccessfully attempting to return to the early 6th-century ‘Rule of St Benedict’. In 1135 the monks applied to join the Cistercian order, and subjected themselves to Clairvaux Abbey, in Burgundy, which was under the rule of St Bernard. The Abbey suffered many changes of fortune, and although in 1535 it was the richest Cistercian monastery in England, in 1539 the church was surrendered when Henry VIII ordered the Dissolution of the Monasteries. The Abbey’s precinct covered 70 acres, and today it is justly famed as one of the most interesting of the ruined Cistercian abbeys in the country. Our party had time to savour the extent of the buildings, and the beauty of the situation by the River Skell. Continuing our religious theme, we visited St Mary's, Studley, a church in the Early English style within the grounds of Studley Royal Park, close to Fountains Abbey. Commissioned by the Marchioness of Ripon to commemorate her brother Frederick Vyner, who had been captured and murdered by Greek bandits in 1870, the church was consecrated in 1878. Designed by William Burges (1827-1881), the church was described by Pevsner as "a dream of early English glory... Studley Royal is (Burges's) ecclesiastical masterpiece". The exterior is of grey limestone, with a two-stage west tower topped with a soaring spire, and a spectacular interior of richness and majesty, with stained glass is by Saunders & Co. Ripley Castle provided a robust return to the secular world, with its Tudor tower and substantial crenellated walls testimony to the changes made to the castle over 700 years by the Ingleby family, descendents of whom still own the castle. On his progress south for his coronation James I and VI was entertained at Ripley Castle by Sir William Ingleby (1546-1618) with a ‘make-over’ of the Tower Room being hastily undertaken for this visit. Despite being royal supporters outwardly, the family were involved with the unsuccessful Gunpowder Plot. During the Civil War the next Sir William Ingleby (1594-1653) fought on the Royalist side at Marston Moor in 1644, where the king's forces were routed. Escaping back to Ripley, Sir William hid in the priest's hole whilst Oliver Cromwell billeted himself in the castle for the night. Sir William's redoubtable sister is reputed to have held a bemused Oliver Cromwell at gunpoint overnight. 14 I THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND I AUTUMN 2013 Castle Howard The Chippendale family resided in Ripley village for a number of years and as a result, the castle contains many examples of Chippendale furniture. A hidden gem Possibly one of the favourite places visited on the tour was Markenfield Hall, a remarkable hidden gem, which is believed to be the most complete surviving medium-sized 14th century country house in England. From 1570 to the 20th century, it was a tenanted farmhouse with an absentee Rievaulx Abbey landlord. As the current owners say, "there was no grand family here with the desire and means to fill in the moat, pull down the outdated Western range and replace it with a ‘modern’ one. The house simply dwelt on, unchanged and largely forgotten". Its relative isolation and tranquillity gives it a rare and remarkable atmosphere that many visitors have commented on, and which our group fully appreciated. Today it is the private home of Ian and Lady Deirdre Curteis, who welcomed us to the house. She is the widow of the 7th Lord Grantley, thus continuing the Grantley family connection that began in 1761 when they purchased the estate. The present owners have done much to restore the house to its original state, but a 16th century visitor returning to the house would immediately recognise the moated exterior and carefully restored great hall, chapel, solar etc. Rivalling Markenfield Hall as one of the group's favourite venues, was Scampston Hall, a Grade II listed country house with a serpentine park designed by Charles Bridgeman and Capability Brown, and a modern walled garden designed by Piet Oudolf. The house is built in two storeys of stuccoed orange-red brick with a slate roof and stuccoed brick chimney stacks. The frontage has seven bays, the central three of which are bowed, the whole being of elegant simplicity. The Hall was built in the late 1600s for William Hustler, and in 1959 Scampston passed to the Legard, or ‘Le Gard’, family, connected to the St Quintin family who had bought the estate in the 1690s. Sir Charles Legard conducted a witty and informative tour of the house, happily stating that the family had distinguished themselves through the centuries by achieving very little of note! The beauty of the house and the gardens rather belied that statement. Perhaps perversely, Castle Howard, one of the greatest stately palaces in the country, did not inspire the same admiration or, more accurately, affection as some of the other houses. Designed by John Vanbrugh for Charles Howard, the 3rd Earl of Carlisle, construction work commenced in 1701, and continued until 1725, with subsequent work going on until 1811. The Baroque style meant the inclusion of many decorative features with cherubs, festoons, urns and statues all of which, being carved by hand, were time consuming, costly and required great skill. On the north side the classical facade is in the Doric order, whilst on the south it is in the Corinthian order. The interiors were impressive, being in some respects more like a