Royal Mountain Travel Magazine Royal Mountain Travel Magazine Issue 2 | Page 24

Traditional Shops of Asan Tole

Traditional shops
of Asan Tole

By Amar B Shrestha

Any local from the Kathmandu
Valley knows where to find a
ghyao-tel pasal. In fact, there are
half a dozen such shops found
behind the Annapurna Temple
(Asanmaru Ajima) in Asan Tole,
the historical, cultural, religious
and commercial center of the
Valley.
At one corner is the Asanmaru
Ajima
(The
Goddess
of
Abundance) and close to it is
a row of small shops selling
ghee, oil, chaku (molass) and
candles. That’s all these small
shops have been selling for
the last hundred years or so.
With no individually identifying
name, they are simply known
as ‘ghyao-tel pasal’ meaning,
ghee-oil shop. Many Newar
families have made their
fortunes through the business
acumen of Tel Sahus (oil
merchants) and Ghyao Sahus
(ghee merchants). Today too,
their great grandsons sit on
small cushions in those tiny
‘heritage shops’.

Traditional spices shop in Ason. Photo: RMT.

According to local tradition, Purna
Das Rajkarnikar was the man
responsible for establishing one of
the oldest shops way back in 1880.
The Grand Wool Center in Kamalachi Lane in Asan
could also be said to be one of Kathmandu’s more
traditional enterprises and is one of the most
successful businesses in the Tuladhar community,
who make up most of the old timers of business in
Asan. Tula means scale.
Another traditional shop is the Shankha Pasal (Conch
Shop) at the opposite end of the road going towards
Indra Chowk. It was the first one to start the spice
trade in Nepal in addition to selling conches.
Near to it and opposite the Machhindra Bahal is a
shop dealing in brass and copperware. It is simply
called Tama Pasal (Copper Shop) and also passed
through a couple of generations, being run now by
the third generation of the family. Tama and pital
gagris (copper and brass water vessels) are the most
important items they sell along with a variety of
household utensils and items for religious purposes.
Once upon a time, gagris were essential wedding
gift items.

Photo: Sudeep Singh.

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May 2014

Ganesh Mandir Pachadi ko Mithai Pasal (Sweetmeat
Shop Behind Ganesh Temple) too is an ancient shop

near Kamalachi Lane which sells mostly traditional
Newari sweetmeats. Run by Laxmi Shrestha, a middle
aged lady, she is single handedly and determinedly
keeping alive the old tradition of Newari sweetmeats.
Business is good during festivals and she is satisfied
with what she’s doing despite the lack of interest
from her other family members. The shop has been
around for at least 50 years, though for how much
longer is anybody’s guess. Laxmi certainly plans to
keep going: “As long as my health allows me to.”
Some of the oldest sweetmeat shops have survived
opposite Kasthamandap Temple in Maru Tole near
Hanuman Dhoka Square in Basantpur. Such mithai
pasals traditionally have been the prerogative of
the Rajkarnikar clan (a Newar clan) down through
the ages. Since time immemorial, these shops
have always been known as Maari Pasals (bread
shops) by locals and a daily to-be-visited shop
for buying breakfast and snacks. Here one must
remember that bread loaves made their presence
felt in the Valley only during the mid 70s with the
advent of the Krishna Pauroti Bhandar in Kamaladi,
Kathmandu.
Maari doesn’t refer to just one type of bread but to
various kinds like selroti, khajur, roth, aati, aaitha,
fini, Punjafi, puri, khasta, gajur and so on. No matter
what name it goes by, you can be sure that each is
as delicious as the next. Indeed, the making of maari
is a good indication of the artistry of the Newars of
the Kathmandu Valley even in their cuisine. Known
as much for their love of festivals as for their many

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