Royal Mountain Travel Magazine Inside Himalayas Issue 5 | Page 62

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN LOWER MUSTANG The World Reveals Lower Mustang, a short flight from Pokhara, is starting to get the attention it deserves as a travel destination. Here are some quick tips for travelling to the region. What to do? Day 1: Fly Pokhara to Jomsom early morning. Hike to Marpha and enjoy apple pie. Day 2: Take a jeep or trek to Kagbeni. Day 3: Explore Kagbeni, including hike to meditation caves and abandoned village. Day 4: Take a jeep or trek to Muktinath, via Jarkhot. Day 5: Trek to Jomsom, via Lubra (a rare Bon village). Day 6: Return to Pokhara via flight. Where to stay? Jomsom: Om’s Home Kagbeni: Red House Eco Lodge What to pack? • A mask or scarf to protect from dust. Lower Mustang is windy in all seasons. Beautiful Buddhist stupas and chortens mark the trails in Lower Mustang. Photo: RMT. village—is unclear, but it is believed that the meditation caves were used by regular villagers rather than just monks or sadhus, and that the village was abandoned due to some natural disaster. While the landscape and archaeological curiosities are impressive enough, another highlight of hiking to this area is the abundance of Jurassic-era fossils that can be found lying around. I last excitedly hunted for fossils as a child holidaying on the south coast of England (what is known as the Jurassic Coast), but to find 200 million-year-old relics of the sea in a landlocked country, 3000 metres high, was unexpected and extraordinary. Many trekkers visit Kagbeni on the way back from a pilgrimage to Muktinath, but I made the journey the other way around. The holy site of Muktinath, which is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, is located at 3710 metres, so is about a kilometre higher than Kagbeni. It’s possible to hike there and back from Kagbeni in a day, avoiding the vehicular road as much as possible, but for a quicker trip it’s easier to drive. Public buses ply the bumpy road carved into the side of the mountain, or a more comfortable private jeep can be arranged in Kagbeni. Muktinath may be more interesting to Hindus and Buddhists than other visitors, as the temple itself is not large or architecturally spectacular. But it is a good excursion nonetheless, as it’s a busy pilgrimage site of immense cultural value. Visitors will be offered a red tikka to the forehead in blessing. Don’t forget to check out the sacred fire that emerges naturally from the ground, as well as the animal- headed spouts spitting holy water. The temple is about a half-hour walk from the car parking area in the village of Ranipauwa, or you can hire a pony to take you up. Lower Mustang is certainly more than just a passing-through point on the Annapurna Circuit or Upper Mustang trekking trails, as it has often been treated, and is worthy of extensive exploration in its own right. Other villages in the area that could be included in day trips are Jharkot, on the way up towards Muktinath, and the Bon town of Lupra. The region is much more accessible than it once was— certainly more so than in Michel Peissel’s day—and is an ideal Nepal destination for travellers with four days to a week to spare. 62 www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel Practicalities • Due to its altitude, Lower Mustang is much colder than the Nepali cities. So, pack appropriately. • Sunscreen. The high-altitude sun is strong. • A permit. Non-Nepalis need to procure a permit in Kathmandu or Pokhara. www.royalmt.com.np • Because Mustang is in the rainshadow of the Himalayas, it’s actually a good place to visit during Nepal’s monsoon season. However, flights are more frequently cancelled then. • Flights to/from Pokhara can often be delayed and cancelled due to visibility and wind. It’s wise not to schedule important connections too close together. • Non-Nepalis need a permit for Lower Mustang, which is around Rs 2000 if purchased in Pokhara or Kathmandu. • For friendly, comfortable and atmospheric accommodation, stay at Om’s Home in Jomsom, and the Red House Lodge in Kagbeni. www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel 63