Royal Mountain Travel Magazine Inside Himalayas Issue 4 | Page 58

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN which is actively used by practitioners of Nyingmapa tantras. Guru Rinpoche also spent time here. Yak skull along prayer flags at Lake Manasarovar. Photo: Tashi Sherpa. and streams, their herds of sheep, yak and goats scattered across the high pastures. The end of the trek brings you to Samye. On the banks of the Yarlung Tsangpo (Brahmaputra), this is Tibet’s oldest monastery and one of its most beautiful. Moderate-strenuous Tsurphu Trek (3-4 days) This trek to the north of Lhasa offers a great mix of small villages, great and tiny monasteries, uninhabited valleys and high passes. On arrival at Tsurphu you can set off on your trek immediately after visiting the monastery or camp here and take an afternoon hike to the nearby mountain where there are many meditation caves. En route you pass a small village, highland pastures with herds of yak and sheep, high grassland valleys, and cross small streams to the 5,300m Lasar-la (pass) where countless colorful prayer flags wave in the wind by the nunnery at Dorjeling. Moderate Day hikes An alternative to a full scale trek are day hikes, of which there are a number of options around Lhasa including: Drip Valley: Explore the life-style of rural Tibet on this day-hike through the farming villages of the Drip Valley. Enjoy the beautiful scenery, visit their small monastery and be invited into local homes to share butter tea, yoghurt and perhaps barley beer. Pabonka - Ani Gompa: This is a full day hike along the ridges north of Lhasa (average altitude 4,160m). Pabonka, one of Lhasa’s oldest monasteries, is the start point. It is then a steepish climb to Tashi Choling and on to Chupsang nunnery. Pass hermitages and small monasteries with stunning views over Lhasa. Chimphu: Add a day in Samye and make a day hike to Chimphu. This is a complex of cave hermitages approx 13 kilometers from Samye 58 www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel | 2016 Mount Kailash trek By far the greatest trekking option in Tibet is to Mount Kailash, the holy mountain that stands at the center of the Buddhist, Hindu, Bon and Jain universes. The earthly manifestation of Mount Meru, it is the focus of journeys to western Tibet. The giant snow-topped pyramid of Kailash stands apart and distinct from those around it, dominating the landscape. Along with Lake Manasarovar it was the heart of ancient Zhangzhung and soul-mountain of the pre-Buddhist Bonpo. To the Bon it is called Yungdrung Gu Tse (Nine-Storey Swastika Mountain) and is the place where their legendary founder, Tongpa Shenrab descended from heaven to earth. In the 11th century however Naro Bonchung ‘lost’ both Kailash and Lake Manasarovar to Milarepa in a contest of magical powers. To complete a kora (circumambulation) is the goal of every Tibetan; a single kora cleans the sins of a lifetime whilst 108 guarantee enlightenment. Kailash is also the geographical watershed of South Asia, here its great rivers are born - the Indus, the Sutlej, the Yarlung Tsangpo (Brahmaputra) and the Karnali /Ganges. At its foot lies the most venerated of Tibet’s lakes, Manasarovar, believed by Hindu’s to have been formed in the mind of Brahma. Generally tour groups make the 52 kilometer kora (circumambulation) in two and a half days, overnighting at the monastery guesthouses of Diraphuk and Zhutrul Phuk. These accommodations are very basic, but you are usually too tired to care too much. Kailash is within the capabilities of any basically healthy person and great fitness is not required, but is tough due to the altitude. The second day is the longest and toughest, crossing the Drolma pass at 5,630m. Join-in group departures for Kailash are offered throughout the year. Tents pitched at Lake Manasarovar. Photo: Tashi Sherpa. It is also possible to make a kora (circumambulation) of Lake Manasarovar. The circuit of the lake is just over 100 kilometers and it is reasonably flat, although still at over 4,600m. Taking 4 to 5 days, you can overnight in the monastery guest houses along the way or camp. Everest Base Camp, North Face Often enquired about is the trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC). North Base Camp (the Tibet rather than Nepal side) is accessible by road and the trek route is within sight of the shortcut that many vehicles use between EBC and Lao Tingri, hence it invariably disappoints people. Shrine and pilgrims at Asthapath above Darchen, Tibet. Photo: Tashi Sherpa. www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel | 2016 59