ADVENTURE
The Journey Begins An early flight to East London isn’ t my usual route, but this time there was purpose: to tackle the Amatola Hiking Trail, often described as South Africa’ s toughest hike.
I love a challenge, and this one had lived rent-free on my bucket list for years. My friends and I had packed the essentials – tuna sachets, protein bars, biltong, electrolytes, and a secret weapon: sour worms – then touched down at King Phalo Airport buzzing with anticipation.
Our shuttle driver, holding a sign that read“ Amatola Hikers,” drove us through King William’ s Town( now Qonce) and into the misty highlands toward Hogsback, a storybook village surrounded by forest and myth.
Arrival in Fairyland Hogsback looks like it fell out of a Tolkien novel. We stayed at Away With The Fairies, a backpackers’ lodge best known for its cliffside bathtub overlooking endless valleys – yes, the famous one from Instagram.
That evening we met Adi, the local trail organiser, for a detailed two-hour briefing at the Green Dragon Café. Calm, thorough, and clearly in love with these mountains, he made sure we knew exactly what we were in for – and how to handle everything from blisters to snakes.
Sleep was restless that night, caught between nerves and excitement.
The Hike Day 1: Maden Dam → Gwili Gwili Hut( 13 km) We started with an easy stroll along Maden Dam, then hit steep forest climbs where moss-covered trees and the smell of rain thickened the air. We crossed creaking bridges and small waterfalls before reaching Gwili Gwili Hut by sunset – simple but charming, with bunk beds, a donkey boiler, and a perfect sunrise view.
Day 2: Gwili Gwili → Dontsa Hut( 20,3 km) This section tested endurance more than elevation, weaving through pine plantations and open slopes. By evening our legs throbbed but spirits soared. Dontsa Hut sat near a gravel track, offering basic comforts: mattresses, hot water, and that beloved donkey boiler.
Day 3: Dontsa → Cata Hut( 19 km) Day 3 was brutal – endless climbs and punishing descents through a maze of waterfalls. At one point, I questioned every life choice that led me here. We stumbled into Cata Hut at dusk, wind howling outside. It felt isolated and ghostly, yet around the fire that night, pride replaced pain. Halfway there.
Day 4: Cata → Mnyameni Hut( 16,8 km) This was the trail at its best. The climb up Geju Peak – the highest point – opened views that stopped conversation. Later, eleven river crossings soaked us to the bone before Mnyameni Hut appeared at dark. Water was scarce, showers a mere trickle, but laughter flowed easily.
SUMMER 2025 / 26 • rovesa. co. za | 47