Rhode Island Monthly May/June 2020 | Page 100

The farm stand is open Thursday through Sunday, where guests can visit the farm’s oxen; heritage Berkshire pigs are raised free of antibiotics. It’s a family affair at Smithfield’s Blackbird Farm. One-year-old Loretta Bouthillette toddles around the barn area, watching the ten-week-old heritage breed piglets as they play in their nursery. Then she makes a run for the manure barn, which looks like a lot of fun to play in, especially since the farm dogs, Beau and Blue, are doing it. Loretta’s grandmother, Blackbird Farm owner Ann Marie Bouthillette, gently dissuades her, crushing the toddler’s impulse to jump right in the muck, all while explaining the pigs’ precise diet of three stages of grains and sharing details about what life is really like at the farm. “I watch her every day. She’s part of our family and this is what farm people do,” Ann Marie says with a smile. The Smithfield family farm humanely raises antibiotic-free, pasture-fed, 100 percent Black Angus cattle and American heritage Berkshire pigs. The organic, dry-aged manure from the barn goes right back out to the fields to fertilize the grass that the cows eat. While Ann Marie cares for Loretta and multitasks at the farm, her son, Brandon Bouthillette, Loretta’s father, moves 1,600-pound hay bales wrapped in green and white plastic sheeting in the fields with a tractor. Ann Marie affectionately calls the mounds mushrooms and marshmallows and, inside them, the grass ferments and turns to hay for food (green) and straw for bedding (white) for the cows for next winter. Brandon looks after the fields and raises the cows and pigs with help from a few farm hands and his wife, Sarah, who also works at the farm store down the road selling beef and pork. Brandon’s sister, Samantha, raises poultry for their eggs and cares for turkeys at the farm. Brandon’s father and Ann Marie’s husband, Kevin, owns and runs a steel business, Inter-City Contracting, located across the street; at the farm, he clears property, makes fields and builds things while keeping track of the books. Their other son, Troy, also manages the steel shop and pitches in at the farm when help is needed. Employees at Inter-City Contracting get treated to a Blackbird Farm burger barbecue for lunch every Friday. Kevin’s father and Ann Marie’s father-inlaw originally purchased Blackbird Farm’s initial four acres of land for his residence when he was building Inter-City Contracting’s steel shop across the street. When Kevin and Ann Marie married in 1984, she moved to the farm and the couple continued to buy more and more land while Kevin operated the shop. He sold his low-mileage Corvette he kept preserved in the garage to buy the back lot. The most recent expansion is the side lot next to the family’s home. “Can you imagine, there would have been thirteen houses on this piece of property?” Ann Marie says, pointing at a field that’s as lush as Vermont’s green mountains. Instead of another housing development, her cows peacefully graze there right beside a street 98 RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l MAY/JUNE 2020