FOOD & CUISINE
The New
Story by Maria Tajanlangit Photography by Donovan Jones
GRAPPA’ S
Benjamin Leib
Italians and Filipinos are similar in a lot of ways: we love our mothers, we abide by il dolce far niente which means the sweetness of doing nothing … and we love to eat! But Italians seem to have a hard time finding good authentic Italian cuisine in the country. Perhaps Pigafetta didn’ t properly share the Italian taste to our ancestors because pizza for us will always be adapted to the sweetness of our palate. Grappa’ s, on the other hand, will serve us a lesson or two on authentic Italian appreciation.
After being franchised for a couple of years, Grappa’ s is back in the hands of its original owners who have other branches in Hong Kong. Opening its doors again with a new look, new menu, and hands-on management by none other than visiting chef Benjamin Leib, Grappa’ s promises nothing but the very best and it all begins with the ingredients. According to him, Italian cuisine is a very simple cuisine in a way that the ingredient is the most important. For good Italian cuisine, 70 % is the right ingredients and 30 % is cooking it the Italian way.
This is why he won’ t compromise when it comes to ordering the best, even for Italian standards. The greatest compliment he has ever received as a chef with French citizenship is Italians telling him that his food is really good. A simple order of mozzarella is made with utmost care that each ingredient is vital for the overall aesthetics and tastes experience of the dish.
With eight cooks / chefs under his tutelage, Chef Benjamin is in and out of the kitchen. He welcomes the guests, and makes sure the table is being waited on, as he rushes to prepare a pizza fresh out of the oven with sumptuous smoked salmon, without holding back on the toppings. He then sees to it that not an olive is misplaced in the dishes before they are served to his guests. Good service for him is making sure that none has to raise their hand to order. And when leaving, they are escorted graciously.
Without holding ourselves back, we sample the mozzarella with tomatoes and olives, the melon wrapped in prosciuttos garnished with onions and pebble tomatoes that played with our palate; the tagliata di manzo which is slivers of beef that were marinated with herbs and cooked just right that it melts in the mouth; the pizza, al dente of course, thin-crust with five different kinds of cheeses most of which I won’ t pronounce as melodiously as Chef Benjamin, with lavish toppings that makes me sing praises without mouthing a word. All I can say is bounissimo! •
For good Italian cuisine, 70 % is the right ingredients and 30 % is cooking it the Italian way.”
“
16 7107 ISLAND TRAVEL