FOOD & CUISINE
The New
Story by Maria Tajanlangit Photography by Donovan Jones
GRAPPA ’ S
Benjamin Leib
Italians and Filipinos are similar in a lot of ways : we love our mothers , we abide by il dolce far niente which means the sweetness of doing nothing … and we love to eat ! But Italians seem to have a hard time finding good authentic Italian cuisine in the country . Perhaps Pigafetta didn ’ t properly share the Italian taste to our ancestors because pizza for us will always be adapted to the sweetness of our palate . Grappa ’ s , on the other hand , will serve us a lesson or two on authentic Italian appreciation .
After being franchised for a couple of years , Grappa ’ s is back in the hands of its original owners who have other branches in Hong Kong . Opening its doors again with a new look , new menu , and hands-on management by none other than visiting chef Benjamin Leib , Grappa ’ s promises nothing but the very best and it all begins with the ingredients . According to him , Italian cuisine is a very simple cuisine in a way that the ingredient is the most important . For good Italian cuisine , 70 % is the right ingredients and 30 % is cooking it the Italian way .
This is why he won ’ t compromise when it comes to ordering the best , even for Italian standards . The greatest compliment he has ever received as a chef with French citizenship is Italians telling him that his food is really good . A simple order of mozzarella is made with utmost care that each ingredient is vital for the overall aesthetics and tastes experience of the dish .
With eight cooks / chefs under his tutelage , Chef Benjamin is in and out of the kitchen . He welcomes the guests , and makes sure the table is being waited on , as he rushes to prepare a pizza fresh out of the oven with sumptuous smoked salmon , without holding back on the toppings . He then sees to it that not an olive is misplaced in the dishes before they are served to his guests . Good service for him is making sure that none has to raise their hand to order . And when leaving , they are escorted graciously .
Without holding ourselves back , we sample the mozzarella with tomatoes and olives , the melon wrapped in prosciuttos garnished with onions and pebble tomatoes that played with our palate ; the tagliata di manzo which is slivers of beef that were marinated with herbs and cooked just right that it melts in the mouth ; the pizza , al dente of course , thin-crust with five different kinds of cheeses most of which I won ’ t pronounce as melodiously as Chef Benjamin , with lavish toppings that makes me sing praises without mouthing a word . All I can say is bounissimo ! •
For good Italian cuisine , 70 % is the right ingredients and 30 % is cooking it the Italian way .”
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16 7107 ISLAND TRAVEL