Re: Winter 2015 | Page 44

R E S T A U R A N T R E V I E W Amy’s Restaurant and Bar Hilton London Gatwick Airport hotel Airports are of course transient places for most people and eating at an airport is usually an expensive, yet non-remarkable experience. However, my colleague Laurence and I were lucky enough to have our preconceptions swept away when we visited Amy’s recently. When we arrived we couldn’t have been greeted more warmly by manager Biju Pappachan and his staff. He is warm, charming and funny and it is patently obvious that his absolute priority is making sure each and every guest enjoys their eating and drinking experience at Amy’s. The restaurant itself is modern and classy and the tables are spaced perfectly so you don’t feel like you’re joining strangers for dinner but at the same time you’re not isolated. The glasses and cutlery were immaculate and we were offered a glass o f champagne, some water and bread rolls immediately while we perused the wine and food menus. Fortunately Laurence and I are both red wine fans. However, this didn’t really narrow down our decision making particularly swiftly but the affable Biju was kind enough to let us sample several of the excellent choices including a Malbec, Merlot and Pinot Noir. We settled for the Malbec but were delighted to have been able to try a range before making our choice. While we were still looking at the menu, we were treated to a pre-starter of lobster bisque with miso, prawn and coriander dumpling which was an absolute treat and certainly filled us with anticipation for the rest of our meal. After a good look at the starters, which included options such as soft duck egg, pea mousse, feves, truffle, crisp bread, 42 cider pork belly, apple crumble, roast apple puree and chilled mackerel, fennel with yuzu, pickled cucumber and wasabi mayonnaise, it wasn’t long before I decided what I was going to have. Being a huge fan of scallops I was quickly convinced by the signature/chef’s recommendation of curried scallops, sag aloo, mango lassi and crisp shallot. Keeping to the fishy theme, Laurence decided to try the squid and crab wontons with fruit salad and spicy papaya dip. All I can say, also being a huge curry fan, I was in scallop heaven. They were cooked to perfection – and being the generous soul that I am, I still managed to share some with Laurence, who, to my amazement had never tried one before but it’s safe to say I have a new scallop loving recruit. There were also no complaints about the wontons and two clean plates were promptly cleared away. There was an exciting choice of main courses including satay corn-fed chicken with coconut cauliflower, spiced lime bok choi and toasted peanuts, maple glazed salmon with spiced bulgar wheat with almonds, charred orange, fire roasted bell peppers and pomegranate dressing as well as trio of asparagus risotto with pecorino. Laurence opted for medium-cooked sesame duck breast with confit duck pancake, red pepper puree, lychee and crispy cabbage and a side of house salad while I went for one of the vegetarian options of pumpkin and ricotta tortellini, charred squash, roasted butternut sauce, spinach and pumpkin seeds. The duck was cooked to perfection and complemented by the range of interesting flavours in the ingredients of its accompaniments. The tortellini was just right, slightly al dente, creamy and hugely comforting – and filling. The dessert menu would impress anyone with a sweet tooth with options including deconstructed lemon meringue tart with raspberry macaroons, white chocolate and Baileys cheesecake with tiramisu and cappuccino crème brulee or strawberry and Pimms roulade with lime sorbet, minted cucumber and sherbet. Feeling more than quite full at this stage, I opted for a lighter option of blackberry and elderflower jelly with spiced cider ice-cream and milk tuille while Laurence tried the rather exotic sounding Szechuan pepper marshmallow with milk chocolate mousse and almond biscuit. I certainly made the right choice which was light and refreshing and Laurence certainly didn’t have any trouble polishing his off and was full of compliments. It’s right to say that I didn’t really know what to expect from an airport restaurant but I can honestly say the whole experience from start to finish was fantastic and the quality of food brilliant. Biju and all staff we had contact with were excellent – attentive but not over the top. So much so that I wouldn’t hesitate to go back – whether I was flying somewhere or not. By Liza Laws