Whanganui Bay
wet dreams wall
This small wall sits on its own in the trees at the far end of Whekenui.
2 Silent Freeway
8m 24
The thin crack provides a difficult
challenge. Kevin Boekholt, 1980
3 A Day in the Life
of Jim Collins
8m 22 [
The first of many routes at the Bay
referencing the fate of the pilot of Flight
TE901 and his tragic entanglement with
Mt Erebus. Presumably when legitimate
rock star John Allen soloed the first ascent of this route there was little chance
of him hitting the ground with the same
impact. John Allen, 1980
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2
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5
1 Romeo Void
8m 22
The minimalist line of pockets to the
left of the thin crack makes for a great
boulder problem.
Roland Foster, 1982
Troy Mattingley on Black Scorpion (24). JOhn Palmer
9
4 Wet Dreams
8m 19 [
This finger-crack is harder than it looks.
The gear is reasonable and provides a
good trad lead at the grade.
Kevin Boekholt, 1977
5 Blind Paratroopers
8m 16
A
3 balancy proposition, but one of the
easiest bolted routes at the Bay.
Presumably the title is a reference to the
only folk who could fail to notice the
chipped hold. Chris Morris, 1980
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7
6
Black Scorpion Area
This shady platform houses a few traditional gems and a few popular bolted routes.
6 Jungle Judy
14m 19 [
An awkward start gives way to pleasant
3
pocket moves. Scramble over the lip and
head right to the anchor. Joe Arts, 1983
7 Lepton Man
12m 24 [
Excellent climbing on the thin crack is
made somewhat inaccessible by poor
gear. Many opt to top-rope from the
Jungle Judy anchor, from which you can
also climb the short second pitch at
grade 22. Dave Fearnley, 1981
0 Separation Anxiety
10m 21 [
Womble tremulously past the shipwreck
2
flake to the first bolt, then abandon
caution and crank through the spaced
pockets. Brent Davis, 1983
q Blow Up
10m 25
A
4 technical and sustained prospect with
a distinct lack of holds. Recommended if
you are in the mood for mincing down.
Richard Bull, 1994
8 Black Scorpion
15m 24 \
The stunning right-angle corner with
crack offers brilliant climbing, although
the gear requires some thought and has
been known to pull. There is little if any
gear prior to the obvious pod, with small
cams and medium wires being useful in
the crack after this point. FA: Unknown
9 Pulse Converter
15m 21 ]
This finger- and hand-crack offers good
options for gear. Dynoing for the tree at
the top is recommended for sport
climbers. Rick McGregor, 1977
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