RDN_Whekenui.pdf Jul. 2014 - Page 8

Whanganui Bay wet dreams wall This small wall sits on its own in the trees at the far end of Whekenui. 2 Silent Freeway  8m 24  The thin crack provides a difficult challenge. Kevin Boekholt, 1980 3 A Day in the Life of Jim Collins  8m 22 [  The first of many routes at the Bay referencing the fate of the pilot of Flight TE901 and his tragic entanglement with Mt Erebus. Presumably when legitimate rock star John Allen soloed the first ascent of this route there was little chance of him hitting the ground with the same impact. John Allen, 1980 1 2 3 4 5 1 Romeo Void  8m 22  The minimalist line of pockets to the left of the thin crack makes for a great boulder problem. Roland Foster, 1982 Troy Mattingley on Black Scorpion (24). JOhn Palmer 9 4 Wet Dreams  8m 19 [  This finger-crack is harder than it looks. The gear is reasonable and provides a good trad lead at the grade. Kevin Boekholt, 1977 5 Blind Paratroopers  8m 16 A 3  balancy proposition, but one of the easiest bolted routes at the Bay. Presumably the title is a reference to the only folk who could fail to notice the chipped hold. Chris Morris, 1980 8 7 6 Black Scorpion Area This shady platform houses a few traditional gems and a few popular bolted routes. 6 Jungle Judy  14m 19 [ An awkward start gives way to pleasant 3  pocket moves. Scramble over the lip and head right to the anchor. Joe Arts, 1983 7 Lepton Man  12m 24 [ Excellent climbing on the thin crack is made somewhat inaccessible by poor gear. Many opt to top-rope from the Jungle Judy anchor, from which you can also climb the short second pitch at grade 22. Dave Fearnley, 1981 0 Separation Anxiety  10m 21 [ Womble tremulously past the shipwreck 2  flake to the first bolt, then abandon caution and crank through the spaced pockets. Brent Davis, 1983 q Blow Up  10m 25 A 4  technical and sustained prospect with a distinct lack of holds. Recommended if you are in the mood for mincing down. Richard Bull, 1994 8 Black Scorpion  15m 24 \  The stunning right-angle corner with crack offers brilliant climbing, although the gear requires some thought and has been known to pull. There is little if any gear prior to the obvious pod, with small cams and medium wires being useful in the crack after this point. FA: Unknown 9 Pulse Converter  15m 21 ]  This finger- and hand-crack offers good options for gear. Dynoing for the tree at the top is recommended for sport climbers. Rick McGregor, 1977 196 8 9 11 10 197