RDN_Whekenui.pdf Jul. 2014 - Page 18

Whanganui Bay # Sayonara  15m 17 [  Straight up the crack from the tree. Say goodbye to hand jams as the crack steadily narrows. Finishes to the right. Worth doing despite the vegetation. The second pitch, however … 35 Rick McGregor, 1978 The short wall to the right has: 34 $ Wedgewood  9m 15 Th  e wide crack on the left. Offwidth technique is not necessary. 43 Rick McGregor, 1976 % This Climb is a Lemon  8m 13 C  limb the crack or the pockets, placing gear in the crack. You may think the name is a negative one, but lemons are a truly wonderful fruit that are high in vitamin C and provide many health benefits. Tony Harrison, 1980 Right of Lemon is a small pillar. This is the first bit of rock you come across when following the track from the end of the beach. ^ Small Pocks  9m 19 [ Better than the great pox! Climb straight 4  up the pillar through pockets, harder than it first appears. Robin Cooper, 1981 42 47 48 49 Moss Corner Area To get to the next climbs take the uphill branch of the track from the beach before you get to Small Pocks. The obvious corner you reach is Moss Corner. & Jim Takes a Tumble  10m 24 [ The short wall left of Moss Corner. 4  Despite the gorse at the top this is worth doing. It is the hardest of all the Jim Collins routes! Brian Fish, 1980 * Moss Corner  10m 18 ]  Another of the original routes from Graeme Dingle and Eric McMahon’s inaugural visit in March 1971. It was probably as dirty then as it is now, so think of yourself as a pioneer 40 years too late. Climb the corner from the boulder up the widening finger-crack. To the right are two more routes. ) Dr Funkenclimb  15m 22 [ It’s 3  a wee way to the first bolt. Originally finished on gear up Orm to the right, but can be finished around the arête picking up the final bolt of JTABG. Neil Parker, 1981 Q Orm  15m 18  The corner to the right. Take a medium–large cam for the upper crack. Brian Barley, 1976 Graeme Dingle, 1971 ( Jim Takes a 4 Booma Gutsa  16m 23 [  The looming wall right of Moss Corner and perhaps the most overhanging of all the Jim Collins routes. 45 44 206 46 Dave Fearnley, 1981 51 50 207