RDN_Whekenui.pdf Jul. 2014 - Page 16

Whanganui Bay Eternity Road Area ! Eternity Road  20m 22 \  ega-classic finger-crack. M Charge up the crack plugging gear and preparing yourself for when the crack narrows and rejects your fingers. Robbie McBirney, 1977 Jono Clarke styling the fabulous top, crux section of Eternity Road. John Palmer n Tibia  40m 16 [  The audacious original route of Whanganui Bay, worth climbing as much for the history and unique character of the route as for the climbing itself. Chimney up behind the pinnacle (try not to push it over into the lake) using cams and small wires in cracks for protection. Originally done as three pitches. Please don’t disturb any historical remains. Good luck. 35 37 Graeme Dingle, 1971 38 m Mother Russia  25m 25 ] 8 Climb Sister Europe to the last bolt, then punch left up the overhanging wall for a Euro-style pump. John Palmer, 2014 , Sister Europe  20m 23 \ A 5  Dave Fearnley classic. Advance boldly up to the first bolt (there is a medium cam placement in a pocket halfway to the bolt), then enjoy the sublime face climbing on perfect pockets. It’s a bit run-out to the anchor, but there are some wire placements if you want them. Probably first climbed wearing psychedelic furs. Dave Fearnley, 1983 . New Horizons  20m 22 ]  The crack to the right of Sister Europe leads to a horizontal undercling feature. Stack this with gear then charge to the ledge. Robbie McBirney, 1977 33 34 / Badlands  20m 24 [ If Eternity Road is too easy for you, have a go at this thin crack to the left. Small gear and increasing difficulty. An easier, earlier version was climbed by John Howard by traversing into New Horizons at the horizontal feature. Roland Foster, 1984 @ Bizarete  20m 22 \ The searing sharp arête. It’s a long way to 5  the first bolt but the climbing is on generous pockets and well below the grade on this section. Proceed with care and then style your way up to the classic technical arête crux high up. Has a shorter second pitch that continues up the arête for three more bolts at grade 20. 42 41 40 43 39 36 Don French & Mike Rockell, 1984 204 205