RDN_Whekenui.pdf Jul. 2014 - Page 14

Whanganui Bay c Drive In Bank  27m 25 \ A 12  stupendous route often called the best route on ignimbrite. Great climbing in a stunning position, all you need to do is get there. To access the belay you can either a) climb the choss from the bottom (not recommended), or b) access the top of the pinnacle by taking the track past and behind the Wet Dreams Wall and abseil in to the belay position (only slightly less scary than a!). 35 Lionel Clay, 1988 33 30 34 31 32 Drive In Bank Area This area is the wall to the left of the Tibia pinnacle and the outside of the pinnacle itself. ; Fantail 25m 17 [  Climb the vegetated groove and corner to a slopy ledge and then continue up the crack to the next ledge to belay. There is a second pitch, which is dirtier and more vegetated. Better than Graeme’s routes at Titahi Bay! Graeme Dingle, 1974 z Scary Monsters  25m 19  The fist-crack to the right of Fantail, becoming thinner over the bulge. Mike Rockell 1982 x The Jabberwocky  50m 23 P1: Place gear in Fantail but climb to the right through brittle rock past four bolts on slab and then into crack feature to the right of arête and on to belay. P2: Head back left to arête and up to ledge (gear) and then up final wall (six bolts). Apparently the second pitch makes it worthwhile doing the first. Mike Rockell, 1984 202 v Fawlty Towers  40m 24 [ If 4  you survive the choss at the bottom you get to enjoy the great climbing up on the pinnacle itse lf. The second pitch has an outrageous offwidth, protected by a mixture of gear, bolts and body parts. Mike Rockell, 1984 b Zen  22m 23 \ A 8  worthy companion route to Drive In Bank. Climb the first pitch of Fawlty Towers or rap in to belay on right-hand side of Tibia pinnacle. Follow the ever-steepening wall to glory. Kester Brown, 1999 Ewan Sinclair cruising through the superb upper moves of Drive In Bank. Mark Watson 203