s The Hanged Man
20m 22 ]
Best done without a bag on your head.
Head up the corner to the left of the On
Patrol arête and then slightly left onto
the slab. Finish up the corner with gear
in the crack. Robbie McBirney, 1977
h Rough Red Coalition
Start up short wall past bolts to the ledge
at base of the Champagne corner, then
step right onto the face and climb
through bulge to finish at the ledge.
d On Patrol in the Ruins
8 of Your Body
20m 23 \
Despite its chequered history (see The
Climber magazine issue 66), this route
has all the hallmarks of a classic. Long
and varied with brilliant moves and a
crux where it hurts. Dave Fearnley, 1983
Back down the rope scramble, the next climbs
start well below the previous ones.
(with refinement from Lionel Clay)
James Stirling Area
These climbs are accessed from the large ledge above the fixed-rope scramble on the main track.
o James Stirling Direct
18m 17 ]
Climb the finger-crack and continue
into the wider hand-crack, exiting to the
left of the block. Good gear is available,
especially after the initial crack.
Peter Mansfield, 1976
p When I Grow Up
I Want to be a Guru
18m 23 [
Rob grew up to be a surfing guru. Start
up the same finger crack using gear for
protection, but head straight up the arête
past four bolts and finish to the right of
the blocks (more gear at top).
Rob Gray, 1986
18m 22 [
‘You have evolved from worm to man,
but much within you is still worm. Once
you were apes, yet even now man is more
of an ape than any of the apes.’ Thus
Spake Zarathustra by Freddie Nietzsche.
Start up the same finger-crack (you must
have it dialled by now) then up slab and
corner to the right of Guru. Small wires
Robbie McBirney 1977
There is a direct start to Zarathustra at grade
23 with one bolt up the short wall right of the
initial crack done by Roland Foster in 1983.
15m 26 ]
Climbs the thin seam and wall to finish at
the tree. Of the 1988 film starring Linda
Blair, one reviewer wrote: ‘Really good
and really bad at the same time.’ The same
might be said for this climb. Looks great
but you be the judge of the adjectival
accuracy of the title. Roland Foster, 1984
22m 20 [
bit of a pickle, originally climbed as
P1: Climb the ramp and corner to the
ledge with tree and bolted belay.
P2: Up short corner to another ledge and
belay of Grotesque.
P3: Climb the groove and crack on left
or the wider crack on the right.
Len Gillman, 1996
j I’ve Wept With
2 Jim Collins Too
Well, he was exonerated in 2011. The
wall to the left of the Surrogate arête.
There is a variation called Shocking Blue
which continues past the ledge then goes
right to the arête at grade 22 and has a
second pitch (grade 24) that climbs the
wall above the belay ledge.
Simon Vallings 1983, Mike Rockell, 1984 &
Lionel Clay, 1988
12m 18 [
2 deservedly popular jaunt up the square
arête using generous pockets.
Nick Cradock, 1988
l Progressive Green
16m 21 ]
6 second pitch to Surrogate which
charges up the bulge above the belay and
continues on the wall and arête. Can be
done as one long pitch with a 60m rope.
Len Gillman, 1995
Rick McGregor, 1976