RDN_Whekenui.pdf Jul. 2014 - Page 12

Whanganui Bay 25 19 20 21 27 24 23 21 20 22 19 s The Hanged Man  20m 22 ] Best done without a bag on your head. 3  Head up the corner to the left of the On Patrol arête and then slightly left onto the slab. Finish up the corner with gear in the crack. Robbie McBirney, 1977 24 25 23 22 26 29 h Rough Red Coalition  12m 23 Start up short wall past bolts to the ledge 5  at base of the Champagne corner, then step right onto the face and climb through bulge to finish at the ledge. d On Patrol in the Ruins 8 of Your Body  20m 23 \  Despite its chequered history (see The Climber magazine issue 66), this route has all the hallmarks of a classic. Long and varied with brilliant moves and a crux where it hurts. Dave Fearnley, 1983 Back down the rope scramble, the next climbs start well below the previous ones. (with refinement from Lionel Clay) James Stirling Area These climbs are accessed from the large ledge above the fixed-rope scramble on the main track. o James Stirling Direct  18m 17 ]  Climb the finger-crack and continue into the wider hand-crack, exiting to the left of the block. Good gear is available, especially after the initial crack. Peter Mansfield, 1976 p When I Grow Up I Want to be a Guru  18m 23 [ 4  Rob grew up to be a surfing guru. Start up the same finger crack using gear for protection, but head straight up the arête past four bolts and finish to the right of the blocks (more gear at top). Rob Gray, 1986 200 28 a Zarathustra  18m 22 [  ‘You have evolved from worm to man, but much within you is still worm. Once you were apes, yet even now man is more of an ape than any of the apes.’ Thus Spake Zarathustra by Freddie Nietzsche. Start up the same finger-crack (you must have it dialled by now) then up slab and corner to the right of Guru. Small wires for protection. Robbie McBirney 1977 There is a direct start to Zarathustra at grade 23 with one bolt up the short wall right of the initial crack done by Roland Foster in 1983. f Grotesque  15m 26 ] Climbs the thin seam and wall to finish at 5  the tree. Of the 1988 film starring Linda Blair, one reviewer wrote: ‘Really good and really bad at the same time.’ The same might be said for this climb. Looks great but you be the judge of the adjectival accuracy of the title. Roland Foster, 1984 g Champagne  22m 20 [  bit of a pickle, originally climbed as A three pitches: P1: Climb the ramp and corner to the ledge with tree and bolted belay. P2: Up short corner to another ledge and belay of Grotesque. P3: Climb the groove and crack on left or the wider crack on the right. Len Gillman, 1996 j I’ve Wept With 2 Jim Collins Too  11m 17  Well, he was exonerated in 2011. The wall to the left of the Surrogate arête. There is a variation called Shocking Blue which continues past the ledge then goes right to the arête at grade 22 and has a second pitch (grade 24) that climbs the wall above the belay ledge. Simon Vallings 1983, Mike Rockell, 1984 & Lionel Clay, 1988 k Surrogate  12m 18 [ A 2  deservedly popular jaunt up the square arête using generous pockets. Nick Cradock, 1988 l Progressive Green  16m 21 ] A 6  second pitch to Surrogate which charges up the bulge above the belay and continues on the wall and arête. Can be done as one long pitch with a 60m rope. Len Gillman, 1995 Rick McGregor, 1976 201