Whanganui Bay
# Sayonara
15m 17 [
Straight up the crack from the tree. Say
goodbye to hand jams as the crack
steadily narrows. Finishes to the right.
Worth doing despite the vegetation. The
second pitch, however …
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Rick McGregor, 1978
The short wall to the right has:
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$ Wedgewood
9m 15
Th
e wide crack on the left. Offwidth
technique is not necessary.
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Rick McGregor, 1976
% This Climb is a Lemon
8m 13
C
limb the crack or the pockets, placing
gear in the crack. You may think the
name is a negative one, but lemons are a
truly wonderful fruit that are high in
vitamin C and provide many health benefits. Tony Harrison, 1980
Right of Lemon is a small pillar. This is the
first bit of rock you come across when following the track from the end of the beach.
^ Small Pocks
9m 19 [
Better than the great pox! Climb straight
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up the pillar through pockets, harder
than it first appears. Robin Cooper, 1981
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Moss Corner Area
To get to the next climbs take the uphill branch of the track from the beach before you get to Small Pocks. The obvious
corner you reach is Moss Corner.
& Jim Takes a Tumble
10m 24 [
The short wall left of Moss Corner.
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Despite the gorse at the top this is worth
doing. It is the hardest of all the Jim
Collins routes!
Brian Fish, 1980
* Moss Corner
10m 18 ]
Another of the original routes from
Graeme Dingle and Eric McMahon’s
inaugural visit in March 1971. It was
probably as dirty then as it is now, so
think of yourself as a pioneer 40 years
too late. Climb the corner from the
boulder up the widening finger-crack.
To the right are two more routes.
) Dr Funkenclimb
15m 22 [
It’s
3 a wee way to the first bolt. Originally
finished on gear up Orm to the right, but
can be finished around the arête picking
up the final bolt of JTABG.
Neil Parker, 1981
Q Orm
15m 18
The corner to the right. Take a
medium–large cam for the upper crack.
Brian Barley, 1976
Graeme Dingle, 1971
( Jim Takes a
4 Booma Gutsa
16m 23 [
The looming wall right of Moss Corner
and perhaps the most overhanging of all
the Jim Collins routes.
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Dave Fearnley, 1981
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