Whanganui Bay
Eternity Road Area
! Eternity Road 20m 22 \
ega-classic finger-crack.
M
Charge up the crack plugging
gear and preparing yourself
for when the crack narrows
and rejects your fingers.
Robbie McBirney, 1977
Jono Clarke styling the
fabulous top, crux section
of Eternity Road.
John Palmer
n Tibia
40m 16 [
The audacious original route of
Whanganui Bay, worth climbing as
much for the history and unique
character of the route as for the climbing
itself. Chimney up behind the pinnacle
(try not to push it over into the lake)
using cams and small wires in cracks for
protection. Originally done as three
pitches. Please don’t disturb any
historical remains. Good luck.
35
37
Graeme Dingle, 1971
38
m Mother Russia
25m 25 ]
8 Climb Sister Europe to the last bolt, then
punch left up the overhanging wall for a
Euro-style pump. John Palmer, 2014
, Sister Europe
20m 23 \
A
5 Dave Fearnley classic. Advance boldly
up to the first bolt (there is a medium
cam placement in a pocket halfway to
the bolt), then enjoy the sublime face
climbing on perfect pockets. It’s a bit
run-out to the anchor, but there are
some wire placements if you want them.
Probably first climbed wearing
psychedelic furs. Dave Fearnley, 1983
. New Horizons
20m 22 ]
The crack to the right of Sister Europe
leads to a horizontal undercling feature.
Stack this with gear then charge to the
ledge. Robbie McBirney, 1977
33
34
/ Badlands
20m 24 [
If Eternity Road is too easy for you, have a
go at this thin crack to the left. Small gear
and increasing difficulty. An easier,
earlier version was climbed by John Howard by traversing into New Horizons at the
horizontal feature. Roland Foster, 1984
@ Bizarete
20m 22 \
The searing sharp arête. It’s a long way to
5
the first bolt but the climbing is on
generous pockets and well below the
grade on this section. Proceed with care
and then style your way up to the classic
technical arête crux high up. Has a shorter
second pitch that continues up the arête
for three more bolts at grade 20.
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41
40
43
39
36
Don French & Mike Rockell, 1984
204
205