Whanganui Bay
c Drive In Bank
27m 25 \
A
12 stupendous route often called the
best route on ignimbrite. Great
climbing in a stunning position, all
you need to do is get there. To
access the belay you can either a)
climb the choss from the bottom
(not recommended), or b) access
the top of the pinnacle by taking
the track past and behind the Wet
Dreams Wall and abseil in to the
belay position (only slightly less
scary than a!).
35
Lionel Clay, 1988
33
30
34
31
32
Drive In Bank Area
This area is the wall to the left of the Tibia pinnacle and the outside of the pinnacle itself.
; Fantail
25m 17 [
Climb the vegetated groove and corner
to a slopy ledge and then continue up the
crack to the next ledge to belay. There is
a second pitch, which is dirtier and more
vegetated. Better than Graeme’s routes at
Titahi Bay!
Graeme Dingle, 1974
z Scary Monsters
25m 19
The fist-crack to the right of Fantail,
becoming thinner over the bulge.
Mike Rockell 1982
x The Jabberwocky
50m 23
P1: Place gear in Fantail but climb to the
right through brittle rock past four bolts
on slab and then into crack feature to the
right of arête and on to belay.
P2: Head back left to arête and up to
ledge (gear) and then up final wall (six
bolts). Apparently the second pitch
makes it worthwhile doing the first.
Mike Rockell, 1984
202
v Fawlty Towers
40m 24 [
If
4 you survive the choss at the bottom
you get to enjoy the great climbing up on
the pinnacle itse lf. The second pitch has
an outrageous offwidth, protected by a
mixture of gear, bolts and body parts.
Mike Rockell, 1984
b Zen
22m 23 \
A
8 worthy companion route to Drive In
Bank. Climb the first pitch of Fawlty
Towers or rap in to belay on right-hand
side of Tibia pinnacle. Follow the
ever-steepening wall to glory.
Kester Brown, 1999
Ewan Sinclair cruising through the superb
upper moves of Drive In Bank.
Mark Watson
203