MONTEVIDEO |
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BEST OF THE REST |
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Colonia del Sacramento An easy day trip from Montevideo, the atmospheric port city of Colonia del Sacramento has a treasure trove of 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century architecture. The small but perfectly formed Barrio Histórico, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is awash with gorgeous mansions, churches, plazas and cobblestone streets. |
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image: alamy |
buildings were followed by art deco apartments, houses and towers— many of which remain in place, notably the Palacio Salvo— before a wave of modernist construction. Meanwhile, the Rambla was built and beachfront suburbs and seasidestyle resorts sprung up along the southeast coast, including Pocitos, inspired by the British city of Brighton.
Today, Uruguay’ s political and economic stability and forward-thinking outlook( same-sex marriage and recreational cannabis use were both legalized in 2013) draw people to Montevideo from across South America and further afield, giving the city an increasingly cosmopolitan vibe.
CULTURE
The undoubted centerpiece of Montevideo’ s culture calendar is carnival. Preparations and practice sessions take place throughout the year ahead of the event, which lasts at least 40 days. Taking over virtually the entire city, it’ s a riot of parties, competitions, concerts, shows and parades featuring brightly colored, over-the-top costumes and floats. The story of carnival— including its multicultural origins and enduring resonance— is told at the Museo de Carnaval in the Ciudad Vieja.
Beyond this annual fiesta, Montevideo has a rich and varied arts scene with a wide selection of museums, galleries and
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Teatro Solis
performance spaces. Foremost among the latter is the Teatro Solís. Dating back to the 1850s, inspired by Italian theaters such as La Scala in Milan and featuring stylistic adornments from renowned French architect and designer Philippe Starck, it’ s worth a visit for its architecture alone. But the real draw of Uruguay’ s top concert hall is its quality program of classical music, opera, ballet and tango shows.
The largest collection of Uruguayan artworks in the country is found at the Museo de Artes Visuales in Parque Rodó. 19th-century painter Juan Manuel Blanes’ creations are particularly illuminating. His vivid depictions of rural life, most notably the iconic gauchos working the cattle ranches, provide a window into a part of Uruguayan history, culture and identity.
Montevideo is also not without its oddities and eccentricities. Just off the Rambla, flanked by nondescript apartments, Castillo Pittamiglio looks like it was created in a fever dream. It’ s a castle-like structure augmented with a bewildering range of spires, turrets, towers and stained glass, not to mention art deco touches, mock-Tudor elements, a ship’ s figurehead and a constellation of Masonic and esoteric symbols. Now a museum, it was built by idiosyncratic architect Humberto Pittamiglio, who lived in here until the mid-1960s.
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Estadio Centenario Host of the first World Cup in 1930, the legendary Estadio Centenario is one of South America’ s great football stadiums. It has a fascinating museum with a huge collection of shirts, boots, pennants and trophies, alongside artworks, photos and videos of legendary matches.
Candombe Alongside tango, the drumfocused music, costumed dancers and rich storytelling of candombe is an essential element of Montevidean culture. Originating from Afro-Uruguayan communities in the Barrio Sur and Palermo neighborhoods, it’ s central to carnival. At other times of the year, public practice sessions take place in Parque Rodó on Saturday nights.
Alfajores A pair of crumbly biscuits sandwiching a layer of dulce de leche and covered with sugar, chocolate or desiccated coconut, alfajores are a favorite treat in Uruguay and across South America. Often eaten during a merienda( afternoon tea), they come in a dazzling array of flavors and are sold in most bakeries, chocolate shops and cafes.
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winter 2025 • 81 |