MONTEVIDEO

Home to around half of the country’ s 3.5 million population, it’ s a place of multiple identities: working port, seaside resort, historic site, modern metropolis. Tango, football and barbecued beef are everpresent, while the many bookshops are testament to its status as a UNESCO City of Literature. And although it feels calmer than most other South American capitals for much of the year, Montevideo sheds this peaceful veneer in late summer by playing host to the world’ s longest carnival.

The city is compact and easy to navigate on foot, not least because of the pedestrianized Rambla, which snakes for 13.7 miles along the shoreline. Regarded as the longest continuous sidewalk on

the planet, it connects the Ciudad Vieja— the oldest and most atmospheric part of Montevideo— with working-class neighborhoods such as Barrio Sur, the green expanses of Parque Rodó, and the waterfront suburbs of Pocitos, Buceo and Malvín. The apartment blocks of the latter gaze across sandy beaches frequented by volleyball players and windsurfers.

Inland from the Ciudad Vieja, the 328-foot Palacio Salvo soars above Plaza Independencia, which is dominated by a statue of Uruguayan independence hero José Artigas. From here, Avenida 18 de Julio, the main shopping street, runs through the city center.

Montevideo is an excellent base for exploring the surrounding region: vineyards producing Uruguay’ s signature wine, tannat; cattle ranches known as estancias that are central to the country’ s economy and identity; and beach resorts such as glitzy Punta del Este all lie within easy striking distance.

Clockwise from above: Playa Pocitos; Town Hall tower, Ciudad Vieja; mate mugs for sale at an antique market Previous pages: Plaza Indepedencia with Palacio Salvo and the statue of Jose Artigas; a striking cafe door in Ciudad Vieja

images: getty; alamy

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