This is a form of toasted flour, which is most often wheat, corn or a mix of both. It’ s used for its thickening properties and toasty malt flavor. A classic dish is gofio escaldón, a smooth paste of gofio with fish stock served with mint and red onion slices.

Papas arrugadas con mojo One of the most characteristic

dishes of the islands’ is papas arrugadas— wrinkly potatoes. The small Canarian potatoes of either the papas bonitas, papas negras or papas coloradas varieties, are boiled then steam dried until a crystalline salt crust forms on the skins. They’ re paired with sauces, either made with red peppers or cilantro.

The island’ s wine production has had a resurgence over the past decade with young winemakers growing native grape varieties such as listán negro and malvasía aromática, and making some standout wines in the nutrient-rich volcanic soils.

This coffee is unique to Tenerife, where a small glass is filled with layers of condensed milk, Licor 43, coffee, hot milk, milk foam, a twist of lemon and a dusting of cinnamon. It’ s a work of art but you must stir it all together to experience it properly.

the island’ s original inhabitants before the Spanish conquistadors arrived. They believed in Achamán, the supreme creator of all things, and Guayota, a devil-like creature who they thought got trapped inside the Teide volcano. The Guanches also lived by the moon, sun and stars, and it’ s this last one that I’ m keen to learn more about. Luckily, the Canary Islands archipelago is one of the best places on earth to stargaze. The European Solar Telescope and the Gran Telescopio Canarias, two of the largest telescopes in the world, are based in neighboring island La Palma, as the skies there are protected. Thanks to Tenerife’ s lofty altitude above the clouds, the skies here are clear almost every night.

Later on, I meet some guides from Teide by Night, a local company certified by the Starlight Foundation. They’ ve already set their telescopes up when I arrive. I join a group being instructed— thanks to a handy laser pointer— of what we are witnessing above our heads, from constellations to

stars. The sky suddenly seems so bright, and I wonder if I’ ve always been around too much light pollution to notice. As I peer through the lens of the telescope, my body tingles at the extraordinary detail.

The next day, it’ s time to head back to sea level and experience the other side of nature on the island— or should that be around the island? The waters around Tenerife are no stranger to boats and ships, as the Canarian archipelago has been a fueling port for centuries for vessels making their way between Europe, Africa and the Americas. The islands of Gran Canaria and La Gomera were Columbus’ s last stop before sailing across the Atlantic and were for a long time considered to be the edge of the world by Europeans. This is still a busy shipping route— but cruise ships are more of a common sight. The south and east coasts of the island were once nothing more than small fishing villages, but have since developed into major holiday resorts for those in search of Tenerife’ s temperate

images: getty; Fatima Gomez AristuCu

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