VANCOUVER, BC
This Canadian city is where sea-to-summit adventures, world-class institutions and Michelin-star-worthy meals await around almost every corner, says Zoey Goto images: awl images; alamy; getty
DAY 1
Arrive hungry, because Vancouver is ready to feed you like an eager relative with impeccable taste. In this city, where the richly diverse food scene finally earned its own Michelin Guide in 2022, stars now glint invitingly outside a growing number of fine-dining landmarks. But one of its most satisfying culinary experiences doesn’ t need a reservation— or a dress code.
This beloved culinary ritual begins with a breezy Aquabus boat ride across False Creek. The crossing is quick and scenic, gliding past bobbing sailboats and sparkling glass towers. Ferries depart regularly from Downtown, Yaletown and Science World.
Step off at Granville Island, with hungry gulls circling overhead. Once an oily tangle of industrial machine shops and warehouses, the peninsula is now home to Granville Island Public Market, one of the finest food markets in North America. Take your time wandering the lively maze of alleyways, where artisan bakers, charcuterie counters, chocolatiers and cheesemongers jostle, in a space that joyfully blurs the line between working market and community gathering place.
Start with a warm, sesame-crusted bagel from Siegel’ s, then head to Benton Brothers Fine Cheese for a tasting plate of Salt Spring Island cow’ s milk varieties. Seafood is essential here, so sample the smoked maple candied salmon from Longliner Seafoods, or wrap your fingers around a steaming cup of bouillabaisse from The Stock Market, swimming with prawns and flakes of wild Pacific cod. The market is open year-round.
Back on the mainland, follow the curve of False Creek west to Stanley Park, Vancouver’ s 1,000-acre urban sanctuary. Larger than New York’ s Central Park, the peninsula is steeped in Coast Salish history and blanketed in old-growth rainforest. It’ s also home to the Seawall, the world’ s longest uninterrupted waterfront path. The 5.5-mile loop inside Stanley Park hugs the coastline and passes beaches, a lighthouse, play areas and forest trails covered in moss.
It’ s the perfect spot for a restorative afternoon stroll, with watery views and a light coastal breeze to blow away the cobwebs. To pick up the pace, hop on a bike from one of the clusters of rental shops just outside the park entrance on Denman Street. Local favorites like Spokes Bicycle Rentals and Yes Cycle offer everything from zippy e-bikes to tandems built for two. Whichever mode you choose, take a moment to pause and watch the waves crash against Siwash Rock, a 32-million-year-old sea stack drenched in local mythology. At roughly the halfway point, pit stop at The Teahouse in Stanley Park, a former military garrison turned cozy dining room with sweeping ocean vistas. Order a crisp glass of Cedar Creek pinot gris, produced here in British Columbia, and soak up the scenery from the wooden patio overlooking English Bay.
Those seeking a dash of adventure should then head into the park’ s interior, where the city fades away beneath a hush of Douglas fir and western red cedar. Some trees soar as high as wind turbines, their rustling canopy casting dappled light across the bed of ferns below. Breathe it all in, then loop back along the eastern edge to the Totem poles winter 2025 • 19