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on the abundance of local fish . Here , try the freshly chopped ceviche , or , for vegan visitors , the spiced lychee fruit served with crispy plantain chips is a great option . Fried items include octopus croquettes and fish empanadas stuffed with an inspired concoction of fish , curry and cheese . The arroz rojo ( red rice ) is cooked in a fish broth and accented with shrimp , and the Afro fried fish arrives in a blazing orange curry sauce of mustard , onion and acevichado peppers — both are excellent choices .
Rooftop bars are plentiful across the city — especially in Casco Viejo . Cap off the night at Arcano , a peacock-hued , passwordprotected speakeasy with a private jewel box terrace overlooking the city lights . Order an El Diablo cocktail , a blend of 15-year-old Abuelo Oloroso rum and hibiscus syrup — if only for the theatrical table-side presentation in a smoke-filled glass box .
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labourers to protect themselves from the sun is called a pintao , made from Carludovica palmata plant fibres . During cultural performances , dances and festivals , this is the accessory that tops off typical folk costumes . The most carefully woven hats command prices in the thousands of dollars . Visit El Guayacano hat shop in Calle 1 of Casco Viejo for the finest examples and a glass-encased exhibit illustrating the weaving steps in various stages .
Classic four-pocket guayabera shirts are tailored from refined cotton or linen . Their origin story is murky — with Cuba holding a strong claim thanks to the legend of a seamstress who added large patch pockets to her husband ’ s shirt to better carry guavas . Head for Portomar on a corner of Avenida A in Casco Viejo for a wide selection of elegant shirts in white and pastel shades that pack easily into a carry-on bag .
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FASHION
Panama hats were popularised by President Theodore Roosevelt during his visit to the Panama Canal Zone in 1906 . The hat he wore while inspecting construction was actually an Ecuadorian model , but the American press didn ’ t fact check their assumption , thus we have the ‘ Panama hat .’ The hat traditionally worn by Panamanian
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HOTELS
The crown jewel of the old quarter is the Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo , included in Travel + Leisure ’ s 2024 list of the 100 best hotels in the world . Rebuilt from the ruins of the original headquarters of the Club Unión of Panama , the lavish 159-room waterfront property was the premier address for a constellation of mid-century
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Clockwise from top : Monument to Vasco Núñez de Balboa on Balboa Avenue ; colourful colonial-style facades ; weaving endemic palm fibres for Panama hats |
images : AWL IMAGES ; ALAMY |
78 • pos t c a rds |