brussels
Belgian author Hugo Claus celebrated his first marriage here . I ’ m here to sample Brussels bruine kroeg (‘ brown bar ’) culture . These traditional wooden bars are so-called because their walls are often the colour of old ivory .
The cafe has legacy : a monochromatic portrait of Tintin ’ s creator , Georges Rémi ( Hergé ), beer in hand , hangs above the bar , just opposite where the photograph was taken . A frame fastened to the main entrance door contains what are believed to be early sketches of Belgian surrealist artist René Magritte , who visited regularly , although the artist , poet and trickster , Geert van Bruaene , who ran the cafe from 1944 until his death in 1964 , was known to have playfully placed a counterfeit or two . Van Bruaene ’ s collection of artwork , photos and other objects , whether created by himself or gifted by the numerous artists who frequented La Fleur en Papier Doré , remain untouched on the walls since the cafe ’ s classification as a listed building in 1997 .
I order Brasserie de la Senne ’ s iconic Brussels beer — Zinnebir , a Belgian pale ale of 5.8 % ABV — which arrives fresh and perfectly conditioned . Its brewer , Yvan De Baets , is known to regularly stop in for quality control and deep conversation . The mismatched wooden tables and chairs with differing heights and varying levels of intricacy appear as chess pieces scattered across the black-andwhite tiled floors . After a formal renovation in 2007 , the ‘ patina ’ of the nicotine-stained walls was preserved by mixing lambic beer into the paint . La Fleur en Papier Doré is one of those time capsules that balance thoughtful beer offerings with a nonchalant , conversation-focused ambience .
Clockwise from right : The annual Carnival of Binche festival ; the historical site of Mont des Arts ; À La Mort Subite bar
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