images : AWL IMAGES ; STOCKFOOD |
CULTURE
Serving as Vietnam ’ s capital for over a century cemented Hue ’ s position at the helm of education and politics . The city ’ s royal pedigree enticed artists and intellectuals from around the country , making Hue an important center of culture . Nha nhac , traditional Vietnamese court music , floats through the streets . Attend a formal recital of nha nhac cung dinh Hue ( Hue royal court music ) featuring the two-stringed erhu and traditional flute at the Duyet Thi Duong Royal Theater .
Learn about Hue ’ s heritage of handicrafts at the Museum of Royal Antiquities , where an extensive exhibition of ceramics , textiles and dynastic dress awaits . Drop into the XQ Hand Embroidery Art Museum for fine examples of hand-stitched still lifes , a fresh take on an honored Hue genre , and view contemporary canvases by Hue-born Le Ba Dang at his eponymous art museum .
Once reserved for the emperor ’ s hunting trips , traditional dragon boats now ply the Perfume River , taking visitors to Thien Mu
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Pagoda . Meandering paths invite lingering walks through the ornamental gardens and pine forests here , culminating with the seven-storey Phuoc Duyen tower , which is the unofficial symbol of Hue .
FOOD + DRINK
In a country often lauded as a foodie ’ s paradise , Hue distinguishes itself with a sophisticated cuisine contrived to titillate the discerning taste buds of the royal court . Some spreads for a Nguyen emperor are said to have possibly included 300 dishes or more — Kim Long Fine Dining at Ancient Hue Garden Houses presents a tamer version of the Hue Imperial Banquet , fusing local produce with European techniques for a modern take on the signature feast .
Several of Vietnam ’ s street food staples were born here , including bun bo Hue , a sumptuous noodle soup featuring beef shank simmered in lemongrass-scented broth . This rich dish also often includes the likes of pork knuckle and oxtail , and various garnishes . Try it at Bun Bo Hue O Phuong ,
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where the proprietress has spent 20 years finessing the balance of banana blossom , cilantro and perilla . Maison Trang dishes out one of the city ’ s best banh beo Hue , steamed rice cakes presented in single-serve dishes and dressed with fried shrimp and scallion oil , while banh bot loc , shrimp and pork belly parcels encased in chewy tapioca , is ubiquitous . Head to Com Hen , an islet in the Perfume River , to savor com hen , rice crowned with flash-cooked basket clams and fresh herbs and vegetables .
Alternatively , do as the locals do and grab a bite at buzzing Dong Ba , a covered market built during the reign of Emperor Gia Long . Nem lui , ground pork marinated in fish sauce , black pepper and garlic , molded around a shard of lemongrass then charred to perfection , is a popular evening snack and ideal market fare . Cap it off with a glass of ca phe muoi — salted coffee — a Hue-style digestif made by filtering strong drip coffee over a foamy mix of fermented milk , salt and sugar . The eponymous Ca Phe Muoi cafe lays claim to the original recipe .
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WINTER 2023 • 81 |