Postcards Winter 2023 US | Page 57

buenos aires
THREE MORE STEAK RESTAURANTS

1La Carnicería

This is a carnivore ’ s paradise — tuck into honey-basted sweetbreads , smoked beef , a four-pound rib-eye and a favorite hangover meal : chorizo , small potatoes , peas and a fried egg .

2El Pobre Luis A traditional , energetic parrilla where the standout dish is pamplona — seared chicken breast stuffed with bacon and cheese . It ’ s proud of its desserts , too , so try to save room .

3Niño Gordo

This parrilla puts an Asian spin on grilling and interior design . A must- order is the delectable katsu sando , made with specially sourced rib-eye .
image : getty
Above : Central Buenos Aires
which is an especially delicious steak . One recent meaty trend is entraña ( skirt steak ), which crisps up and requires little cooking time ; just two are available per cow and it isn ’ t even on the menu here — only those of us in the know can order it . Other off-thebone cuts worth sampling include vacío ( flank ), and the bife de chorizo . Not to be confused with the spiced pork sausage , this cut is similar to a New York strip steak and comes attached to a thick wedge of salty fat .
Then there ’ s the awfully good offal . Asados begin with achuras ( grilled starters ), such as chinchulines ( chitlins ), morcilla ( blood sausage ), and molleja ( sweetbread ). I always start with mollejas , served crispy on the outside and soft on the inside ( they ’ re known as the ‘ foie gras of Argentine asado ’
for their silky interior texture , the flavor enhanced by a little sea salt and a squeeze of lemon juice ). All of these beef products are usually found on the menu at any steakhouse , whether it ’ s an award winner or a tiny mom-and-pop store in a residential neighborhood , and they ’ re cooked to order .
“ Our mission has been the same from the beginning : honoring and elevating our traditions and culture ,” says Pablo . “ There ’ s a family behind our restaurant , a family originating from Rosario , in the middle of Argentina , who put down roots in Buenos Aires . My grandfather and father were butchers and livestock producers , and when I was 20 we joined forces , bringing our ambitions and experiences to the table to create a parrilla using the beef we raise ”.
WINTER 2023 • 57