NORWAY day vanishes into a dusk of deepening goldpinks , lilacs and powder blues . When we switch off our engines , silence rings and snow crackles underfoot . In the distance , I see something move in the shadows . I want to believe it ’ s a polar bear , but it could just be a reindeer . Svalbard locals have a word for these maybe moments : ‘ reinbears .’
The Greenland Sea booms in the inky darkness and a brutally cold wind stings my face as we approach Isfjord Radio , a former 1930s radio and weather station at Kapp Linné . After almost 62 miles in the saddle , cold and tiredness gnaw my bones . But grinding to a halt , this is soon forgotten , as we ’ re greeted with mugs of hot grog and a welcome party in the heavens .
The Northern Lights form a green arc in the vaulted sky , like a temple to the Nordic gods . The lights dance for an hour , maybe more , floating , rippling and holding us in their thrall . In all the excitement , I try to remember the pro photographer tips , grappling with my camera on a tripod and fumbling with frozen fingers to set a long exposure and high ISO . But not even the best photo in the world can capture their ephemeral beauty . image : awl images
IN THE DISTANCE , I SEE SOMETHING MOVE IN THE SHADOWS . I WANT TO BELIEVE IT ’ S A POLAR BEAR , BUT IT COULD JUST BE A REINDEER . SVALBARD LOCALS HAVE A WORD FOR THESE MAYBE MOMENTS : ‘ REINBEARS ’
Polar bear prints in the snow on Spitsbergen ’ s east coast
WINTER 2023 • 45