ON THE TRAIL
Smoked Prime Rib at Smitty ’ s Market
On the other end of the barbecue spectrum from the humble sausage is the smoked prime rib at Smitty ’ s . The team here smoke a boneless section of the rib-eye that ’ s been coated with salt and coarsely ground black pepper , and slice it thick to order . Smitty ’ s opens at 7am most days and at 9am on Sundays — which is quite early for a barbecue joint . The prime rib is usually ready around 11am , so arrive then because it sells out fast . And the longer it sits on the smoker , the further it gets from the preferred medium rare doneness .
Pork Spare Ribs at Barbs-B-Q
In a town with so many hallowed barbecue haunts , opening a new one right on the courthouse square takes some moxie . When three women pitmasters , Chuck Charnichart , Haley Conlin and Alexis Tovias , opened the doors earlier this year , they were quickly rewarded with lines down the block . Many come for their unique take on pork spare ribs . These thick ribs from the belly portion of the pig are often simply seasoned with salt and pepper for smoking . At Barbs-B-Q , they add a sweet and spicy serrano glaze , and finish them with a sprinkling of lime zest — a barbecue revelation .
Smoked Brisket at Terry Black ’ s Barbecue
Terry Black opened this location in late 2022 , just a few blocks from his family ’ s place run by his brother Kent Black . The family is torn and so are the locals who find it hard to decide where to eat lunch . But there ’ s no doubt about it — Terry wins this sibling rivalry with his tender and eminently juicy beef , coated in a jet-black bark from the all-wood smokers on display . Brisket is king in Texas barbecue , and Terry ’ s is some of the best in the state .
WINTER 2023 • 27