DAY 2 |
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images : alamy |
From left : Colourful umbrellas in the Lower Town ; The citadel and fortifications of Quebec City
Previous page , clockwise from top left : City skyline from Mount Royal ; St . Lawrence River at dusk ; Montmorency Falls ; Jacques Cartier Bridge ; National Museum of Fine Arts of Quebec ; Cathedrale Marie-Reine du Monde ; Old Quebec across St Lawrence River ; a farm in Île d ’ Orléans ; Old Quebec City
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After a fortifying croissant at Paillard on Rue Saint-Jean , it ’ s time to tackle another of the city ’ s legendary fortifications : La Citadelle de Québec . From the outside , its star-shaped figure at the cusp of the old town is imposing , but on a guided tour the space opens up to rolling lawns , military buildings and epic views of the river and city . Delve into the complex history of the British-built structure , still an active garrison of the Royal 22nd Regiment , and witness the elaborate Changing of the Guard ceremony that takes place every day at 10am ( summer only ).
Directly to the west of the Citadelle , the Plains of Abraham — site of the pivotal French-English Seven Years ’ War battle in 1759 — is now a rambling park and forest area . Marked history trails lay out the timeline and crucial locations of the battle , perfect for a scenic walk on warmer days .
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If the weather isn ’ t agreeable , a dedicated Plains of Abraham Museum showcases uniforms , maps and period artifacts at the edge of the park .
Quebec City has plenty of other excellent museums — the Naval Museum in the old port details Canada ’ s military history on water ; the National Museum of Fine Arts showcases epic painting and sculpture . But the Museum of Civilization is truly unique , showcasing the cultural , economic and social history of Quebec from its 17th-century founding through the 1960s Quiet Revolution into the present day .
Continue the distinct Quebecois flavour by enjoying dinner at Aux Anciens Canadiens , set in what ’ s said to be the oldest house in the city . Dishes range from poutine ( cheese , fries and gravy ) to tourtière ( French-Canadian meat pie ) and sticky maple syrup tart .
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WINTER 2023 • 19 |