QUEBEC CITY , CANADA
One of the oldest European settlements in North America , Quebec City boasts old-world charm , magnificent landscapes and modern enticements in equal measure , writes Alicia Miller
DAY 1 images : awl images ; alamy ; getty
Set dramatically on a cliff overlooking the rushing St . Lawrence River , Quebec City feels like it ’ s been plucked straight from old-world France . It was founded by Gallic explorer Samuel de Champlain in 1608 , and the fortified historic centre still retains its vast ramparts and photogenic stone architecture , lending a fairytale air to its narrow cobbled streets .
Exploring those streets is exactly what ’ s called for on the first day here — soaking up the split-level historic core and all its storybook atmosphere . Begin in the Lower Town , navigating the enticing maze of cafes , craft boutiques and galleries ( multilocation Beauchamp features work by local artists , for example ). Place Royale , fronted by 17th-century Notre-Dames-des-Victoires , is particularly picturesque , as is Rue du Petit Champlain ; don ’ t miss confectionery store La Petite Cabane à Sucre on the latter for its glut of maple-flavoured delights .
At the northern end of Rue du Petit Champlain , the city ’ s oldest stairway
— the ominously named Breakneck Stairs , built in 1635 — connects the Lower Town with the Upper . But if tackling its 59 steps sounds daunting , simply hop on the nearby funicular ; the zoom upwards deposits visitors onto broad wooden boardwalk Dufferin Terrace , flecked with striped kiosks and affording sweeping views over the St . Lawrence River . Directly adjacent , the palatial figure of landmark hotel Fairmont Le Château Frontenac — which has hosted the likes of Queen Elizabeth II , Paul McCartney and Celine Dion — sweeps up into the sky . Pop in for a regal afternoon tea or an aperitif with a view in 1608 Bar . Or simply continue exploring Upper Town , taking in scenic Rue Saint-Louis and the magnificent basilica .
Come dinner time , the Upper Town is bursting with atmospheric French restaurants . Truffle-laced dishes and a sublime Burgundy and Bordeaux-heavy wine list are wheeled out by dapper waiters at celebrated staple Le Saint-Amour .
WINTER 2023 • 17