A NEW GENERATION OF HAWKERS
Fortunately , enterprising young chefs are stepping up to the plate — be it by taking over the reins from their parents or grandparents , or by setting up their own businesses from scratch . One such chef is 30-year-old Douglas Ng , who has been selling fishball noodles for eight years . Hoping to preserve his grandmother ’ s recipe for handmade fishballs , he opened his own stall , Fishball Story , at Golden Mile Food Centre in 2014 . “ When I first started out , there were very few young hawkers in the industry . It ’ s not an easy journey . Some people find it less rewarding compared with an eight-to-five job , while others find it too tiring and unglamorous ,” says Ng .
Thankfully , his efforts have paid off , with Fishball Story earning a place on Michelin ’ s Bib Gourmand list in 2016 . Now operating out of a kopitiam in Circuit Road , the stall draws long lines of hungry customers . Ng even plans to open his first overseas outpost in an upcoming Singaporean-themed food hall in New York City .
A few entrepreneurs are even putting their own spin on classic hawker dishes . Third-generation hawker Faye Sai runs Coffee Break at Amoy Street Food Centre with her siblings , Jack and Anna , serving up modern iterations of traditional breakfast fare . On the menu , you ’ ll find items such as sea salt caramel kopi , black sesame teh ( tea ) and toast slathered with homemade Earl Grey creme , just to name a few . “ When the hawker trade first boomed in early Singapore , many immigrants tweaked their hometown recipes to suit the needs and wants of their customer base , and this practice is still seen today ,” says the 34-year-old . “ It is this allowance for creativity that invites new hawkers , whether fresh out of university or mid-career switchers and even retirees , to venture into the hawker trade , eager to share their own take on heritage foods .”
Like Ng , however , she admits that being a young hawker is not without its challenges . “ When my siblings and I took over the stall full-time , we lost almost best hawker centers
Tiong Bahru Market Trendy Tiong Bahru might brim with hip cafes and restaurants , but some of the neighborhood ’ s best food can be found at this two-story complex . Head to the second floor for hawker classics such as fishball noodles and chwee kueh ( steamed rice cakes ).
Lau Pa Sat This stalwart in the Central Business District ( CBD ) is known for its striking Victorian architecture as much as its food . Top dishes here include thunder tea rice ( rice served in a teabased broth ) and beef noodle soup .
Maxwell Food Centre Another CBD institution , this hawker center is best known for chicken rice ( courtesy of Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice ). Tuck into a comforting bowl of sliced fish soup from Jin Hua , or rich beef rendang ( beef slowcooked in coconut milk and spices ) from Popo & Nana ’ s Delights .
Old Airport Road Food Centre Situated in the Mountbatten district , this is one of the most popular hawker centers thanks to the variety of food on offer . Over 150 stalls sell everything from Hokkien mee ( stirfried noodles ) to oyster omelette and tau huay ( soybean curd ).
Tekka Centre This bustling hawker center in Little India sells authentic Indian fare such as biryani ( mixed rice dish flavored with spices ), rojak ( spicy salad with ingredients like tofu , pineapple and cucumber ) and more . Food from other cuisines includes Teochew kueh ( sweet or savory cakes ).
winter 2022 // 37