A deep , primeval bellowing reverberates through the trees , changing to a crescendo of shrieks . Fighting the instinct to freeze , I force myself to keep creeping forward . And there he is .

Recognition hits me with a jolt . Chimpanzees are so similar to us humans , it ’ s uncanny . In the wild , where they ’ re watchful and alert , their eyes brimming with intelligence , the feeling of kinship is acute .

“ We know this old man very well ,” whispers Samuel Adue , my guide . “ He often hangs out here , away from the others . It ’ s as if , from time to time , he just needs to be alone .” Some naturalists frown on anthropomorphism , but ever since British primatologist Jane Goodall observed that chimps exhibit distinct personalities , it ’ s been acceptable to bend the rules . Perched on a branch , with his arms draped casually over his knees , my distant cousin looks positively philosophical .

I ’ m exploring Budongo Forest , an ancient tropical rainforest on the edge of Uganda ’ s Murchison Falls National Park . Rich in biodiversity , it ’ s home to more than 600 wild chimps , a small community of which has been painstakingly habituated to the presence of human visitors and can therefore be tracked on foot , for an hour at a time or — by special arrangement — a full day .

Of course , I opted for the latter . Who wouldn ’ t want the chance to live among chimps for a day , from the first glimmer of dawn to nest-building time at dusk ?

Plan a visit to Uganda , and you ’ ll be asking yourself this kind of question repeatedly . It has so many natural attractions that it ’ s hard to decide which to squeeze in , and which to leave for next time . One thing is certain : this is a superb destination for an outdoorsy road trip . Starting from Kampala , an easygoing East African capital where birds squawk from the treetops and flashy boda boda motorcycle taxis with solar-powered batteries weave through the traffic , you should head upcountry for at least a week — preferably a lot longer .

Wildlife-wise , what can you expect ? Chances are lions , elephants , hippos and giraffes will be high on your wish list , and Uganda ’ s blockbuster national parks , Murchison Falls and Queen Elizabeth , can definitely deliver . But if you ’ ve already been on safari in Kenya , Tanzania or South Africa , you may want to seek out something different .

Birds , for example . Hilariously prehistoric-looking shoebills lurk like spooky statues in Mabamba Swamp near Kampala , and African crowned cranes ,

Previous pages : Silverback mountain gorilla in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park Clockwise from top : Chimpanzees in Kibale National Park ; shoebill on the shore of Lake Victoria ; Mweya Safari Lodge

images : Emma gregg ; AWL IMAGES ; getty

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