dolomites |
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images: awl images |
From left: View of the vineyards and the church of Saints Quirico and Giulitta in Termeno commune; a typical charcuterie board in the Dolomites |
of Alto Adige( or Südtirol, as the locals call it) where German is still widely spoken. If the region’ s history is reflected in its language, it’ s also written into the rock. Walk the streets of Trento, capital of the Trentino autonomous province, to see the fossilised forms of the sea creatures whose shells created the mountains, preserved in the pink Dolomite stone of the pavements.
The Dolomites might be incredibly peaceful today, but this wasn’ t always the case. During World War I, the conflict which finally ended Austrian rule of the region, pitched battles were fought among these mountains, with soldiers from both sides tunnelling into the cliffs and glaciers, laying explosives and setting off avalanches to gain an advantage over the enemy. Today, many of the old fortifications have been turned into museums commemorating the horrors of the White War. But it’ s not uncommon to see old bullet casings, rusty mess tins or strings of barbed wire on secluded trails to this day.
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FOOD & DRINK
Dolomite cuisine reflects the region’ s cultural crossroads and multi-ethnic history blending Italian, Austrian and Ladin influences into something distinctly Alpine. It majors in hearty mountain fare— cured meats and local cheeses, sausages, venison stews, canederli( dumplings), sauerkraut and the omnipresent polenta are all as typical as Italian classics like pasta or pizza. Mountain huts or rifugi( see page 53), play a key role in the food experience. And if the food occasionally feels Austrian, the attitude toward food is pure Italian. Many walking trials lead to rifugi serving excellent three-, four- or even five-course meals, and lunches become leisurely affairs.
Wine-lovers will find excellent whites from Alto Adige, home of grapes like gewürztraminer, and reds made of teroldego from Trentino. Trentodoc, the region’ s answer to Prosecco, is increasingly gaining an international reputation, too— Ferrari trentodoc is often sprayed instead of Champagne at Formula One races.
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summer 2026 • 59 |