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some of the Dolomites’ more celebrated destinations and retains a nostalgic belle époque feel. Walking trails begin almost in town, while cable cars offer easy access to high meadows and panoramic viewpoints, making this one of the best bases for moderate hikes as well as more demanding climbs.
DOBBIACO
Dobbiaco— or Toblach, as it’ s known among the German-speaking locals— sits in the upper Pusteria valley, and serves as a great gateway town to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, perhaps the Dolomites’ most iconic peaks. Wide cycling and walking paths connect the town with nearby lakes and valleys, including postcard-perfect Lake Braies. Both the iconic three peaks and the lake are best avoided during peak season, when the crowds are at their worst. But despite being close to these Instagrammable attractions, Dobbiaco manages to remain relatively low key, with an atmosphere that feels relaxed and outdoors-focused.
TIRES
While nearby Alpe di Siusi is one of the most photographed places in the Dolomites, the small village of Tires, tucked around the other side of the Catinaccio massif, offers a quieter alternative. Here, visitors can expect pastures, forest walks and family-run inns.
The surrounding Sciliar-Catinaccio Natural Park offers accessible walking routes with immense views. The village
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isn’ t big, but if you can get a hotel room, it’ s an excellent choice for a quieter getaway while still enjoying classic Dolomite scenery.
MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO
Madonna di Campiglio is probably the best place to base yourself if you want to explore the Brenta Dolomites— the westernmost of the nine UNESCO-recognised mountain groups. While the infrastructure for walking, climbing and mountain biking is excellent here, the Brenta Dolomites tend to attract fewer crowds in summer than some of their eastern cousins, and their peaks and passes often feel wilder and more rugged. The town and its surrounding satellite settlements balance old-world charm with modern comforts. In winter, the ski area is a favourite with Milanese second-home owners, and Madonna is home to more than one Michelin-starred restaurant. But not everything is super high end here, and despite its reputation as a fashionable resort, Madonna remains remarkably accessible— offering spectacular scenery without requiring strenuous effort.
HISTORY & HERITAGE
While they’ re now synonymous with Italy, the Dolomites have not always been Italian. For more than 500 years, this area was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and Austria’ s influence is still visible in the region’ s onion-domed churches, hearty cuisine, accordion-powered folk music and lederhosen-like traditional dress— particularly in the autonomous province
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Clockwise from top: Rifugio Tuckett, a flag bearer in the Province of Bolzano / Bozen; Madonna di Campiglio Previous pages: Lake Dobbiaco in South Tyrol |
images: alamy |
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