malta
Arumble echoes over the valley, momentarily
drowning out all other sounds. As the plane continues its descent, it quickly becomes a small silhouette in the sky and everything is quiet again, save for the leaves rustling in the wind and the hum of traffic in the distance. It’ s peaceful out here— in this swathe of cultivated fields in central Malta, fringed by busy arterial roads and bustling commercial towns, with the airport just a short drive away. It’ s an overcast day and there’ s the threat of rain in the air, but I feel sheltered by the lush foliage of the trees at Ta’ Xmun Olive Grove.
“ This is my refuge,” says Charles Bugeja.“ Even in the hot summer months, this place offers some respite.”
Charles inherited the olive grove from his father, and since retiring, he’ s been able to dedicate more time to the trees. It’ s here he produces his own extra virgin olive oil, which has earned recognition both locally and abroad.
“ We have two indigenous cultivars at this grove,” he explains.“ Tal-Bidni and Tal-Bajda.”
The Bidni olive is a small dark fruit, almost violet in colour when ripe. It’ s known for yielding high-quality oil with a distinct peppery taste. This endemic tree is believed to date back to Roman rule in Malta, when olive oil was already in production. In fact, excavations just outside Mdina— the ancient citadel that once served as Malta’ s capital— uncovered a Roman domus( house) complete with a stone olive press. Coincidentally, the pressing mill where Charles takes his olives is not very far from this historic site.
“ Ideally, Bidni olives should be cold pressed as soon as they’ re picked,” he tells me, and I immediately sense the challenge.
There aren’ t many pressing mills on the island, and when the harvest is good, farmers with trucks loaded with olive crates can be seen queuing for hours by the roadside. For Charles, timing is everything. He makes an appointment with the millers and spends a day at the grove harvesting the Bidni olives so they can be pressed within 24 hours. This quick process helps preserve the polyphenols in the olives, which lend flavour and freshness to the oil. Fast milling also maintains low acidity, which is essential for extra virgin standards. images: getty; William Torrillo
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