greece
Traditional hotspot Avli( meaning‘ courtyard’) looks out over a lapping Garitsa Bay and the eucalyptusdappled Anemomilos Grove. The menu includes some staples of Greek cuisine, including baked eggplant, rich tomato sauces and flaky calamari. However, it’ s the creative presentation that earned Avli its reputation; an octopus tentacle is laid on a golden bed of fava puree, while wild greens are cooked up with peppers and parsley to make tsigareli— a spicy island specialty. Thanks to Corfu’ s position on the Venetian spice route, ingredients like cinnamon, paprika, chili and pepper are found all over the island.
A standout on the menu is the signature dish of pork filet, served with sticky, caramelized kumquats. The sweet, tart citrus fruits are much loved in Corfu, and meals are typically washed down with a kumquat liqueur. I toast to Avli’ s proprietors, brothers Christos and Vasilis Pappas, and continue my journey.
Clockwise from top left: Summer basil smash cocktail at The White House; Vlacherna Monastery and the Church of Pantokrator on Mouse Island, Corfu; chilled tomato soup with strawberries, crayfish tartare and basil oil at The White House
Ancient rites
To really understand Corfu and its food, one must delve into its rocky coastline, marshy lakes and forests of spire-like cypress trees. A short drive that serves up a selection of landscapes is the coast road south of Corfu Town, to the fishing village of Benitses.
After clearing Corfu Town’ s suburbs, I reach the sea at Pontikonisi. Here, Corfu’ s airport runway divides the Strait of Corfu from the grassy Halikiopoulou Lagoon, which in ancient times was Corfu’ s primary port, but is now home to colonies of the endangered great egret. I pause for a while, watching the planes land— the rumble from the jets causing the egrets to spread their own wings.
Allowing my eyes to fall to the waterline, a postcardperfect scene comes into view: the whitewashed Holy Monastery of Vlacherna, a modest chapel on its own islet that belies the gilded chandeliers and wellpreserved wooden icons inside. A little farther down the coast road is the Achilleion Palace, a classically inspired pile built for a heartbroken Empress of Austria in 1891.
When I reach Benitses’ s bay, framed by forested mountains, I go for dinner at Klimataria. It’ s hard to miss— the four-story magnolia facade makes it stand out from the low-rise apartments that surround it. There are only 11 tables here, so booking in advance is recommended.
Nikos Bellos and his wife, Lily Bellou, opened the seafood-oriented Klimataria in 1997 and, like any Greek taverna worth its salt, it’ s a family operation. Nikos handles the fresh fish and meats, while his wife oversees salads, vegetarian dishes and desserts.
“ We’ re one of the first restaurants at the Corfu Town market every morning. Some fishmongers will even save their excellent produce for us”, Nikos and Lily’ s son Costas Bellos proudly tells me. images: THE WHITE HOUSE RESTAURANT; awl images
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