Postcards Summer 2024 US | Page 63

cruise
Clockwise from left : Ushuaia port and town ; End of the World Lighthouse in the Beagle Channel , Ushuaia ; horsemen riding along the seafront promenade in Ushuaia
Previous pages : Blue skies , snowy mountains and glacier in Paradise Harbor , Antarctica
Top three : wildlife species in Antarctica
images : awl images ; alamy
explorers , who saw the flickering fires burned on the shoreline by Indigenous Selk ’ nam and Yaghan tribes . There ’ s also the Museo Maritimo y Presidio de Ushuaia , housed in an old military prison , which charts the area ’ s seafaring history .
Due to its isolated location , Ushuaia was the home of a penal colony between 1902 and 1947 . Guests can board the vintage narrow-gauge Tren del Fin del Mundo ( Train to the End of the World ) to follow part of the scenic route that once transported the prisoners to cut wood in the surrounding forests . If there ’ s time to spare , there are also guided hikes and kayaking expeditions . Stop off at one of the many restaurants to try some typical Fuegian cuisine , such as king crab , Patagonian trout or hearty stew , guiso fueguino . Ushuaia is also a great place to stock up on any last minute outdoor clothes for the trip , including warm hats , gloves and scarves spun from Fuegian wool .
DRAKE PASSAGE
Linking Antarctica to the rest of the world , this immense and infamous body of water has been navigated by some of the world ’ s most famous explorers . That said , you might be surprised to discover that although it ’ s named after Sir Francis Drake , following his circumnavigation of the globe between 1577 and 1580 , the renowned Elizabethan
seafarer never actually sailed the Drake Passage — he inadvertently discovered the waterway when he drifted into the unknown route in 1578 . The first person on record for sailing through it was in fact Dutchman Willem Schouten .
At 600 miles wide , with depths of up to 15,600 feet , the shortest route to Antarctica from the rest of the world has a formidable reputation for having the roughest sea conditions on Earth . Spare a thought for Anglo-Irish explorer Ernest Shackleton , who took 15 days to cross the passage in a lifeboat in 1916 after his stricken vessel Endurance became trapped in ice . While many modern-day adventurers relish the prospect of the crossing , which takes around 48 hours , others understandably feel nervous . It ’ s worth keeping in mind that Viking ’ s high-tech expedition ships are more than capable of handling any waves , and while sea conditions can never be guaranteed , there are days when the passage can be so calm that it ’ s called the ‘ Drake Lake ’.
Striking seascapes are one of the highlights of this route , so have cameras ready at the deck in case of an iceberg or whale sighting . Birds to look out for include petrels , sheathbills , fulmars and the unmistakable mighty albatross — don ’ t worry , members of the expedition team will be on hand to help you spot them .
Albatross Immortalized in Samuel Taylor Coleridge ’ s poem The Rime of the Ancient Mariner , these iconic birds are said to bring sailors good luck . With wingspans of up to 11 feet , they spend almost all their lives at sea and can glide for hours without flapping their wings .
Adélie penguins Penguins are synonymous with Antarctica , and you ’ re guaranteed to see lots of these endearing birds on your voyage . Out of 18 species , only two , the Adélie and emperor , are truly native to the continent . Adélies , recognized by their distinctive white belly , are the smallest penguin . Don ’ t let this fool you , though — they ’ ve been known to be quite predatory , especially with seals or large seabirds .
Humpback whales These are the area ’ s most abundant baleen whales , meaning they feed through a sophisticated filter system and don ’ t have teeth . They ’ re also among the most energetic , often breaching ( breaking through the surface of the water ) and spouting water up to nine feet through their blowhole .
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