CYPRUS |
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From left : A village scene in Kato |
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Drys , southwest of Larnaca |
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LOCAL FLAVORS |
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images : awl images ; alamy |
Joannides tells me later . “ The origin can be traced back to ancient history — it ’ s listed among some of the world ’ s oldestknown cheeses .”
Originally made with unpasteurized milk , today the cheese — known worldwide for its distinctive rubbery texture — is pasteurized when mass-produced to adhere to modern standards . It ’ s the Mediterranean nation ’ s fourth-biggest export , and , in the U . S ., sales are on the rise . In 2021 , halloumi ( or hellim as it ’ s called on the Turkish side of the divided island ) was awarded PDO ( Protected Designation of Origin ) status by the European Commission , meaning only cheese produced in Cyprus , to certain specifications , can bear the name . Mrs . Loulla and her sons , who help tend to the 300 livestock , work 365 days a year to keep their customers happy — some of them travel for miles to stock up on the cheese . And there ’ s no need for fancy labels or advertising — the finished product speaks
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for itself , as I discover when I sit down at the dining table in the farmhouse . Photos of Mrs . Loulla ’ s seven children and 15 grandchildren are proudly displayed on the walls . Shortly after I ’ ve taken my seat , a magnificent spread is laid out before me on a rose-print tablecloth . I can feel my mouth beginning to water as Mrs . Loulla sets down plates of halloumi slices ( fresh from the latest batch ) alongside chunks of peeled cucumber , wedges of tomato , marinated black olives , a loaf of brown bread and a pot of runny golden honey . Following Demetra ’ s lead , I lay a juicy piece of halloumi on a slice of sesame-encrusted bread and drizzle it with a dash of honey . The combination of salty , soft cheese with the crusty bread and sweet topping is heavenly . The subtly minty flavor of the halloumi ( the herb is added before the blocks of cheese are cooked for the second time ) also goes beautifully with the crunchy vegetables and the tangy olives . |
Koulouri The ideal bread to complement halloumi ? Try sesame-covered koulouri , which comes in bagelesque rings or long loaves — perfect for tearing and sharing .
Anari Made from the whey left over from halloumi making , creamy anari is softer and milder than its sister cheese . Often compared to cottage cheese , it ’ s also used as a filling for pastries .
Souvlaki No visit to this Mediterranean island is complete without sampling a beloved Cypriot kebab , a pita pocket stuffed with succulent pieces of chargrilled pork or lamb ( or both ), crunchy salad and a generous helping of tahini and yogurt sauce .
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summer 2024 • 47 |