ON THE TRAIL
Tamezret
Once closely connected to Matmata but largely abandoned today , Tamezret ’ s main draw lies in its foundations . Beneath the stacked stone walls of the settlement is a series of zigzagging tunnels , constructed centuries ago in horizontal routes and sharp vertical climbs . They were designed deliberately — the Berber communities that once flourished in the region built this guerilla-style defensive strategy before the tactic was ever conceptualized . Visit the town ’ s Berber Museum to learn more about the tunnels , as well as the traditional crafts and cuisine of the region .
BERBER SITES IN TUNISIA
Traces of ancient Berber culture are present all across Tunisia — from the depths of the country ’ s desert to its Mediterranean outposts , finds SJ Armstrong
Shadowed tunnels leading to troglodyte dwellings have been burrowed into the Tunisian countryside for thousands of years . The Berbers , the Indigenous people of North Africa , have inhabited these subterranean settlements since around 3000 BC . Conserving their ancient artisanal techniques , prehistoric building style and means of thriving in the harsh Saharan terrain , they ’ re a community that ’ s stayed true to their unique heritage .
Though their presence is clear even in the major modern cities of Africa ’ s Mediterranean border , the most authentic way to learn about these elements of their pre-Arab way of life and traditions — things that they ’ ve honed and preserved since the Stone Age — is by visiting Berber towns and settlements . From the subterranean alleyways of Matmata to the eighthcentury village of Takrouna , here ’ s our pick of the best sites across Tunisia to learn about the Berbers .
Takrouna
Above the semi-arid farmlands of Sahel is the small village of Takrouna . Its narrow , sand-colored laneways lead out to panoramic viewpoints of Zaghouan ’ s rugged hills and the Mediterranean Sea . The village is believed to have been built in the eighth century , and , physically removed from the battles for cultural supremacy that raged below , it still maintains its Berber traditions . Head to the small souvenir shop to browse artisanal wares and pause to admire the emerald dome of the mausoleum of Sufi mystic Abd al-Qadir al-Jilani . illustrations : Lis watkins
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