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Fresh fish sandwiches being made on
the waterfront of Eminonu
from Kilis and mulberry molasses ; and a classic milk pudding , coated in crispy strands of deep-fried pastry .
Beyoglu was once known as Pera and nicknamed Little Europe for the many embassies that were housed in its ornate 19th-century buildings . After the founding of the Turkish Republic in 1923 , the area ’ s mile-long central artery was re-named Istiklal Caddesi , or Independence Avenue .
The following morning , I join the crowds and dodged heritage trams along this vibrant thoroughfare , and discover a fascinating mix of old and new . International brands sit side-by-side with simit carts , a 15th-century marble hammam next to a sleek modern art gallery , and Istanbul ’ s oldest wine bars vie with contemporary cocktail lounges .
I escape the throng for a sedate afternoon tea in the opulent Kubbeli Saloon at the Pera Palace Hotel . Opened in 1892 to house the first passengers on the Orient Express , underneath the magnificent domed ceiling and glittering chandeliers , a table groans under the weight of enticing cakes from the hotel ’ s patisserie .
To the soundtrack of a tinkling piano , I imagine Greta Garbo lounging on a red velvet chaise longue , Agatha Christie plotting storylines over a cucumber
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sandwich , and Ernest Hemingway downing a whiskey or three in the Orient Bar .
That evening , I eat at one of the city ’ s most exclusive eateries , the award-winning Mikla perched on the top of the Marmara Pera Hotel and with panoramic city views . Headed up by celebrity chef Mehmet Gürs — dubbed the Godfather of New Anatolian cuisine — his contemporary seven-course tasting menu ( there ’ s also a three-course prix fixe ) reflects his Turkish-Scandinavian roots .
The restaurant works with a food anthropologist to search out the finest ingredients and I feast on dishes such as tender octopus with zingy pomegranate vinegar ; dried beef tenderloin with earthy isot chili ; and flavorsome Ezine white cheese and buffalo yogurt with jammy molasses , all perfectly paired with unexpectedly good Turkish wine . As the setting sun bathes the city in a golden glow , I ’ m only distracted from my plate by the showstopping skyline of silhouetted domes and minarets .
I round off with a creative cocktail mixing twice-distilled raki – Turkey ’ s potent aniseed spirit – with gin , hibiscus , and cranberry juice , while drinking in the views across the Bosphorus to the twinkling lights of Asia .
No wonder they say go for the history , stay for the food .
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ESSENTIALS
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When to go : Istanbul is a year-round destination but the best times to visit are May / June , and September / October , when it ’ s not too hot for exploring but the evenings are warm enough to dine outside . Currency : Turkish Lire . $ 1 = 17.34 TRY Language : Turkish Getting around : Neighborhoods such as Sultanahmet , Eminönü and Karaköy are best explored on foot . Tram T1 stops near must-see sights such as Hagia Sophia and the Galata Tower . One of the best ways to see the city is from the deck of a public ferry , which stops at both the European and Asian shores . You can also beat the traffic jams by taking the M1A metro line to the airport .
BOOK IT NOW
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See the infamous Blue Mosque before bargaining at the electric Grand Bazaar , which has more than 4,000 shops . Embark on Insight Vacation ’ s 11-day Wonders of Turkey tour , which departs November 23 , 2022 .
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To book your trip to Istanbul , contact your travel advisor .
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image : alamy . MAP ILLUSTRATION : JOHN PLUMER |
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