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images : awl images ; getty |
on a classic — a box of fragrant , rosewaterflavored morsels .
From the busy waterfront at Eminönü , I cross the Galata Bridge , which spans the Golden Horn , the body of water that separates old and new Istanbul . Fishermen stand shoulder-to-shoulder along the bridge and , behind me , I can still hear the guttural cries of “ balik ekmek ” — literally “ fish and bread ” — from the fishing boats tied to the quay . Hungry commuters often grab a fish sandwich-to-go , grilled mackerel topped with lettuce , onion , red cabbage , parsley and a squeeze of lemon , before they ferry hop home along the European and Asian shores .
Dating back to the region ’ s nomadic tribes , street food is deep-rooted in Turkish culture and it can still see you through a day ’ s sightseeing . I ’ d already tried ovalshaped pide — a Turkish take on pizza — but wanted to try lahmacun , a round , wafer-thin flatbread topped with a mixture of ground lamb , red peppers , tomatoes and onion , flavored with garlic , paprika and chiles .
Across the bridge in Karaköy , I drop into a cupboard-sized , no-name restaurant , order , and within minutes the lahmacun ’ s in my hands , piping hot from the oven . I give it a sprinkling of fresh parsley and a squirt of lemon juice and eat it rolled like a burrito , washed down with a glass of yogurt-based , salty-and-sour ayran .
There are also dozens of types of kebabs and , after a long night , convivial Istanbullus
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often refuel with a classic doner — the meat , traditionally lamb or beef , cooked and expertly shaved off a vertical rotisserie — from a hole-in-the-wall joint . Or the more elaborate iskender , aka the king of Turkish kebabs , where meat is served over cubes of flatbread cooked in a rich tomato sauce and then smothered in garlicky yogurt .
The city has just as many types of restaurants : a meyhane usually serves mezze — tapas-style hot and cold dishes , while a traditional lokanta is a no-frills affair serving fresh , home-style cooking . Now there ’ s a new generation of homegrown chefs taking the dishes their grandmothers made and giving them a contemporary twist , and many of them will be recognized by Michelin when the guide makes its Turkish debut in October 2022 .
That evening , I head to Beyoglu ’ s Yeni Lokanta , which translates as ‘ new restaurant ,’ a buzzy bistro with local touches , such as Iznik-style tiles . Chef-owner Civan Er sources seasonal ingredients from all over the country , such as blue cheese from Konya , olive oil from Marmaris and sour pomegranate from Antakya .
Among the menu standouts are dried eggplant-stuffed manti — delicate dumplings traditionally made with lamb or beef — in a goat ’ s milk yogurt sauce ; Er ’ s own-recipe lamb sausage that he has specially made in southeastern Turkey , served with burnt yogurt from Denizli , sun-dried black grapes
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Aheste Chef Sara Tabrizi serves up thoroughly modern hot and cold mezze with Turkish , Ottoman and Middle Eastern influences . The decor ’ s simple but stylish , the atmosphere ’ s laid-back and there ’ s a good wine list .
Karaköy Lokantasi This family-run , modern take on a tiled lokanta is a local ’ s favorite for its hot and cold mezze and top-notch raki . Or try a Ottoman-era stew , such as the Sultan ’ s Delight , with tender slow-cooked lamb and smoky eggplant puree .
NeoLokal Part of Karaköy ’ s SALT Galata cultural complex , chef Maksut Askar puts his own spin on Turkish produce sourced from a sustainable farm . Expect a three- and six-course tasting menu , creative cocktails and breathtaking city views from its floor-to-ceiling windows .
Turk Fatih Tutak Chef-owner Fatih Tutak ’ s daily-changing tasting menu focuses on sustainably sourced ingredients and is inspired by Turkish heritage in Anatolia , the Mediterranean and the Balkans . Each plate is a piece of art , with bold flavors that pair perfectly with Turkish wine .
Clockwise from top left : Istanbul
skyline , with the Bosphorus and
Galata Tower ; the Blue Mosque ;
Turkish delight at the Spice Bazaar
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SUMMER 2022 • 39 |