Clockwise from left : David , a |
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sculpture by Gian Lorenzo Bernini , |
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displayed in Galleria Borghese ; |
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spaghetti carbonara with parmesan ; |
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a cafe in the Regola district ; the |
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Spanish Steps |
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images : awl images ; alamy ; STOCKFOOD |
Both artists depict the Biblical story of David and Goliath , one in stone and one on canvas . Caravaggio ’ s dramatic painting of David holding the severed head of Goliath complements Bernini ’ s intense , lifelike depiction of David as he launches his formidable slingshot . At Galleria Borghese , visitors can observe the emotion on the goddess Proserpina ’ s face as she fights to escape the clutches of underworld god Pluto , masterfully executed by Bernini , then 23 years old . Another marble masterwork is Apollo and Daphne , which depicts the nymph Daphne ’ s transformation into a laurel tree to escape Apollo ’ s unrelenting attention . The sculpture was the last of a series of works commissioned by Cardinal Scipione Borghese at the start of Bernini ’ s career . Tickets are limited — only 360 visitors are permitted at a time due to the museum ’ s compact size — so prebooking is essential . Guided tours are recommended .
FOOD & DRINK
In his 1998 book Pasta and Pizza , anthropologist Franco La Cecla notes the symbolic importance of pasta , saying it “ begins to unwind like a ball of yarn and wrap itself around the Italian identity ”. Carbonara — a spaghetti dish with a sauce made of eggs , pecorino romano and parmesan cheeses , black pepper and guanciale ( salt-cured pork ) — has traditionally been associated with the city of Rome . At Fortunato al Pantheon , next to the Pantheon , enjoy a lunch of classic pastas and seasonal dishes like Roman-style artichokes and roasted lobster .
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If you ’ re still hungry , head to Emma , a pizzeria on Via del Monte della Farina that serves crunchy , thin , Roman-style pizza with toppings such as zucchini flowers , anchovies and Parma ham . The menu includes both ‘ red ’ ( with tomato sauce ) and ‘ white ’ ( without ) pizzas — all made with the same organic flour and finished in a woodfired oven .
For those who prefer a more hands-on experience , Fabiolous Cooking Day offers group classes that teach how to make a host of classic Italian dishes . Roll up your sleeves to knead two types of pasta dough : one to make traditional egg pasta for ravioli using semolina flour , and a no-egg version using 00 durum wheat flour for cavatelli , which is part of a meaty ragu . Chop , trim , portion and sample the ingredients before sitting down to enjoy the fruits of your labor with your fellow classmates .
In search of the perfect gelato ? Author David Winner , in his book Al Dente : Madness , Beauty and the Food of Rome , tells the story of Giovanni Fassi who bet big on gelato back in 1880 . Fassi rode the wave of the frozen confection ’ s popularity and opened what was at the time the largest venue dedicated to dessert in the city : Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi . Located a few blocks beyond Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele II , the illustrious ice cream shop has 24 flavors on the menu , including a few whose names pay tribute to the founder — among them , Crema Fassi , Gusto di Andrea Fassi and Pistacchio di Giuseppina Fassi .
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BEST OF THE REST
See the other Sistine Chapel Bypass the tourist-packed Vatican for the Basilica of Saint Mary Major . The entrance to this UNESCO World Heritage Site is marked by a pilfered Egyptian obelisk . Inside is a gilded Renaissance-era ceiling along with intricate mosaics depicting scenes from the Old and New Testament , as well as the birth of Christ and the life of the Virgin Mary .
Sip an aperitivo Match your cocktail order to the season . In the summer , a favorite drink among locals is the Aperol spritz , a bitter liqueur mixed with prosecco and club soda . During cooler months , choose a Negroni ( gin , Campari and red vermouth ), found on bar menus all over town .
Enjoy rooftop views Rome is home to a wealth of great rooftop bars . The Court bar , at the Palazzo Manfredi hotel , overlooks the Colosseum , while the Trevi Rooftop , on the third floor of the Relais Fontana di Trevi hotel , is a lively spot overlooking the worldfamous fountain .
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