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Traditional Polynesian |
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poulet fafa with taro |
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leaves and chili ; a |
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Catholic church in |
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Puama ’ u , Hiva Oa ; one of |
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many stone tikis in Nuku |
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Hiva ; a yacht glides into |
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the harbor in Papeete |
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images : stockfood ; alamy ; awl images |
main village of Omo ‘ a to Hanavave , farther along the western coast . The trail winds through forests of acacia and fruit trees — and your efforts are rewarded by spectacular views from the open grassland on the plateau . The descent to Hanavave affords another fantastic vista that ’ s dominated by the beautiful Bay of Virgins , which is surrounded by lofty basalt columns .
Alternatively , a leisurely stroll around Omo ‘ a leads to the small red-roofed church Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Paix d ’ Omo ‘ a , with its slender white spire and ornate wooden altar . On your walk in Omo ‘ a , you ’ ll find craftsmen demonstrating their skills in making tapa cloth , a material created from soaked tree bark that ’ s decorated with elaborate designs using vegetable dyes .
HIVA OA
The most remarkable sight on Hiva Oa is the group of tiki statues — human-like stone religious sculptures , the largest outside the similar moai statues on Chile ’ s Easter Island — standing in a leafy clearing . A winding road deep into green hills leads to the hallowed outdoor shrine of Meae Iipona , the site of these prehistoric stone figures , whose vast heads and huge eyes symbolize knowledge and power . One of them , around 9 feet tall and known as Takaii , towers over the rest , representing a formidable chieftain . Islanders believe the spirits of the dead wander this site and that the tikis come alive . There are lines in Takaii ’ s eyes , which when hit by the sun in a certain spot resemble all-seeing pupils .
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The charms of Hiva Oa also captivated French post-impressionist painter Paul Gauguin and Belgian musician Jacques Brel , who lived their final years on the island and are buried close to each other in simple graves in the picturesque cemetery overlooking Atuona Bay .
NUKU HIVA
The capital of the Marquesas , Nuku Hiva is French Polynesia ’ s second largest island after Tahiti . The main town of Taioha ’ e , the starting point for exploring the island , is situated on a former volcanic crater that ’ s partly collapsed into the ocean , creating a bay with black-sand beaches .
There are 700 archaeological sites scattered across the island , including me ’ ae — sacred ceremonial places — as well as the remains of rock platforms where ancient Taipi people built their first homes beneath the banyan trees that still grow here today . In their shade , troupes of villagers perform spirited traditional dances , such as the haka pua , or pig dance , and haka manu , the bird dance , accompanied by guttural cries and a mesmerizing beat from pahu wooden drums .
Nuka Hiva is also famous for its waterfalls . The Hakaui Valley hiking trail leads to the Vaipo waterfall , which cascades from a height of 1,148 feet and is the highest in all of French Polynesia .
RANGIROA
Part of the Tuamotu archipelago , Rangiroa is distinctly different from other Tahitian
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TOP THREE : LOCAL DISHES TO TRY
Poulet fafa Traditionally cooked over an ahima ’ a oven ( pit barbecue dug into the earth ), tender chicken pieces are prepared with onion , garlic , ginger and coconut milk to create a creamy dish served with fafa , the edible stem and heartshaped green leaves of the taro ( known as Polynesian spinach ).
Poisson cru The islands ’ abundance of fresh seafood , fruit and vegetables comes together in French Polynesia ’ s national dish . Traditionally served on a banana leaf , raw fish ( usually tuna ) is marinated in lime juice and coconut milk and mixed with crunchy raw vegetables to create a dish that tastes as good as it looks .
Firi firi Locals tend to eat these donuts for breakfast , but visitors devour them throughout the day . They ’ re infused with coconut milk and molded into a figure eight , or strips , before being fried and served warm with a liberal dusting of sugar .
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spring 2025 • 63 |