argentina
Clockwise from right : Fountain of the Continents at General San Martín Park , Mendoza ; vintage car in front of a winery in Maipú , Mendoza ; bottles of wine inside special display cases in the Zuccardi winery in Mendoza ’ s Uco Valley
White Bones Chardonnay 2022 both achieved the coveted rating , further cementing Argentine wine ’ s world-class reputation .
But wine doesn ’ t start and end in Mendoza . Salta ’ s elevated vineyards are nestled within a lunar landscape and breathtaking scarlet canyons , many dotted alongside the legendary Ruta 40 , which runs the length of Argentina and is revered by road-trippers . Star grapes here include aromatic Torrontés , spicy Malbec and fresh Grenache . Jujuy ’ s fledgling Quebrada de Humahuaca wine region , meanwhile , shares terroir with Qhapaq Ñan , the Inca Trail network that ’ s home to epic mountain landscapes inhabited by small Indigenous communities . And , in recent years , exploration has taken winemakers to the Atlantic coast and Patagonia , where cooler maritime climates better suit grapes such as Albariño and Pinot Noir .
TASTING TIMES
More than 200 of the 900 bodegas in operation in Mendoza open their doors to wine aficionados , making the city an ideal destination for those keen to sample vintages . In the Maipú Department is the family-run Bodega Santa Julia , which opened to the public in 2001 rather spontaneously , says tourism director Julia Zuccardi ( after whom the winery is named ).
“ Back then , people would simply turn up and ask to look round , and the truth was that we had absolutely nothing organized in terms of offering a proper tour ,” she says . “ Anyone who was available , someone from the administrative team or an enologist , would just show these curious folks around .”
Before 2001 , travelers mostly visited Mendoza for the mountain-related activities , such as trekking or taking on major expeditions such as scaling Mount Aconcagua
— the highest mountain in both the Western Hemisphere and Southern Hemisphere at 22,840 feet . Julia and her family paid heed to the change in visitors ’ interests , and the intervening years have seen Santa Julia spotlight Mendoza in a host of ways . In the early days , Julia ’ s grandmother Emma created a link between wine and art , showcasing the work of local artists by organizing exhibitions and asking them to design labels for the bodega ’ s wines . Meanwhile , Julia ’ s brother Miguel has been producing award-winning extra virgin olive oil , Zuelo , for the past 20 years , sharing his passion for Arauco , Picual and Coratina olive varieties .
Today , the winery cultivates nearly 1,000 acres of certified organic vineyards , Argentina ’ s largest , and their biodynamic wines are named after farm animals , such as El Burro Malbec ( The Donkey ), with the labels designed by Julia ’ s young children . Visitors with an appetite can book a table at one of the bodega ’ s two restaurants , the Italian-inspired Pan y Oliva and the traditional La Casa del Visitante . These ventures laid the blueprint for the family to build and open Zuccardi Valle de Uco in 2016 , chosen not once but three times as the World ’ s Best Vineyard for its stunning architecture . Naturally , 100-point vintages made by Julia ’ s viticulturist brother Sebastián form part of the portfolio . Depending on their budget , guests can sample a three-wine flight with a sommelier or book a lunchtime feast paired with top vintages .
Every bodega adds its own flourish for visits ( it ’ s always best to book ahead ), serving up chocolate and wine pairings , horseback rides through vineyards or fun experiences that include blending and bottling your own vintage . It ’ s practical to devote a couple of days each to key valleys Luján de Cuyo and Maipú , using either of
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