go now
Amphitheatre of El Jem
WHERE: EL JEM, TUNISIA image: GETTY
In northeast Tunisia, in the former Carthaginian outpost of Thysdrus, sits the Amphitheatre of El Jem— not only the biggest Roman theatre in Africa, but, with a circumference of 1,400 feet and space for more than 35,000 spectators, one of the largest found anywhere within the Roman Empire. Employing the same construction techniques used to create the Colosseum in Rome, El Jem was built some 150 years later— around 238 CE— at a time when strategically located Thysdrus prospered from the production and trade of olive oil.
The free-standing, elliptical amphitheatre sits on flat ground and doesn’ t have any foundation. Instead, it uses a complex system of Corinthian arches interspersed with sculptures of Greco-Roman deities to support its stacked stone frame. It’ s certainly stood the test of time: two-thirds of the walls— including three levels of arcades representing 68 out of an original 90 arches, plus the arena itself— are still standing. In the shadowy depths of the hypogeum— underground cells for holding animals and gladiators alike— visitors can get an insight into the sort of entertainment spectators were once treated to. Today, the theatre is the venue for the annual and altogether more genteel El Jem International Symphonic Music Festival, in addition to hosting guided tours throughout the year. spring 2025 • 9