Clockwise from left: David, a |
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sculpture by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, |
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displayed in Galleria Borghese; |
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spaghetti carbonara with parmesan; |
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a cafe in the Regola district; the |
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Spanish Steps |
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images: awl images; alamy; STOCKFOOD |
Both artists depict the Biblical story of David and Goliath, one in stone and one on canvas. Caravaggio’ s dramatic painting of David holding the severed head of Goliath complements Bernini’ s intense, lifelike depiction of David as he launches his formidable slingshot. At Galleria Borghese, visitors can observe the emotion on the goddess Proserpina’ s face as she fights to escape the clutches of underworld god Pluto, masterfully executed by Bernini, then 23 years old. Another marble masterwork is Apollo and Daphne, which depicts the nymph Daphne’ s transformation into a laurel tree to escape Apollo’ s unrelenting attention. The sculpture was the last of a series of works commissioned by Cardinal Scipione Borghese at the start of Bernini’ s career. Tickets are limited— only 360 visitors are permitted at a time due to the museum’ s compact size— so prebooking is essential. Guided tours are recommended.
FOOD & DRINK
In his 1998 book Pasta and Pizza, anthropologist Franco La Cecla notes the symbolic importance of pasta, saying it‘ begins to unwind like a ball of yarn and wrap itself around the Italian identity.’ Carbonara— a spaghetti dish with a sauce made of eggs, pecorino romano and parmesan cheeses, black pepper and guanciale( salt-cured pork)— has traditionally been associated with the city of Rome. At Fortunato al Pantheon, next to the Pantheon, enjoy a lunch of classic pastas and seasonal dishes like Roman-style artichokes and roasted lobster.
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If you’ re still hungry, head to Emma, a pizzeria on Via del Monte della Farina that serves crunchy, thin, Roman-style pizza with toppings such as zucchini flowers, anchovies and Parma ham. The menu includes both‘ red’( with tomato sauce) and‘ white’( without) pizzas— all made with the same organic flour and finished in a wood-fired oven.
For those who prefer a more hands-on experience, Fabiolous Cooking Day offers group classes that teach how to make a host of classic Italian dishes. Roll up your sleeves to knead two types of pasta dough: one to make traditional egg pasta for ravioli using semolina flour, and a no-egg version using 00 durum wheat flour for cavatelli, which is part of a meaty ragu. Chop, trim, portion and sample the ingredients before sitting down to enjoy the fruits of your labour with your fellow classmates.
In search of the perfect gelato? Author David Winner, in his book Al Dente: Madness, Beauty and the Food of Rome, tells the story of Giovanni Fassi who bet big on gelato back in 1880. Fassi rode the wave of the frozen confection’ s popularity and opened what was at the time the largest venue dedicated to dessert in the city: Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi. Located a few blocks beyond Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele II, the illustrious ice cream shop has 24 flavours on the menu, including a few whose names pay tribute to the founder— among them, Crema Fassi, Gusto di Andrea Fassi and Pistacchio di Giuseppina Fassi.
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BEST OF THE REST
See the other Sistine Chapel Bypass the tourist-packed Vatican for the Basilica of Saint Mary Major. The entrance to this UNESCO World Heritage Site is marked by a pilfered Egyptian obelisk. Inside is a gilded Renaissance-era ceiling along with intricate mosaics depicting scenes from the Old and New Testament, as well as the birth of Christ and the life of the Virgin Mary.
Sip an aperitivo Match your cocktail order to the season. In the summer, a favourite drink among locals is the Aperol spritz, a bitter liqueur mixed with prosecco and club soda. During cooler months, choose a Negroni( gin, Campari and red vermouth), found on bar menus all over town.
Enjoy rooftop views Rome is home to a wealth of great rooftop bars. The Court bar, at the Palazzo Manfredi hotel, overlooks the Colosseum, while the Trevi Rooftop, on the third floor of the Relais Fontana di Trevi hotel, is a lively spot overlooking the worldfamous fountain.
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spring 2025 • 81 |